Peter Tiedt’s Botswana Trip: 5 - 20 August 2005

 

 

Participants

 

Peter Tiedt, Adel Malan, Gareth Tiedt,  Pinetown, Sunninghill

2002 Land Rover 110 CSW Td5

Carol Robertson, Neil Rischbieter,

Buccleugh

1997 Land Rover 110 CSW Tdi300

Nic Nel, Selwyn Miller,

Linbro Park

1997 Toyota Hilux SRX  2700i DC

 

 

In Memoriam:

Adel Malan tragically lost her life in a vehicle accident on 19 September 2005. The accident happened near Geluksburg, KZN while Adel was relocating to Howick, KZN to pursue her dream of establishing a FreeMe Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre at the Umgeni Valley Nature Reserve. Her contribution to this trip report was substantial and memories of the time we spent together in Botswana will be treasured always.

Peter Tiedt, rigel@stars.co.za

 

Itinerary

Durban / Johannesburg / Koster / Zeerust / Ramotswa / Molepolole / Khutse GR / Bape Camp / Xade / Piper Pan / Tau Pan / Deception Pan / Matsweri / Kuke Corner / Makalamabedi / Maun / Moremi / 3rd Bridge / Kwai Village /  Mababe / Savuti Camp / Kasane / Victoria Falls / Kasane / Pandamatenga / Nata / Lekhubu Island / Khama Rhino Sanctuary / Martin's Drift / Johannesburg / Durban.

 

Start odometer (Td5)

Vehicle: 107410

Trip: 0.0

GPS: 0.0

 

Daily Trip Reports

 

Wednesday 3rd August

Durban to Johannesburg

14h00 - 19h50

 

Uneventful trip to Johannesburg.  Jerry cans and water tanks were empty as fuel cheaper in Botswana and it was planned to fill everything up there.

 

Odo: 107992

Trip: 582.5

GPS: 568

 

Thursday 4th August

In and around Johannesburg and Pretoria.

08h44 - 09h09; 11h13 - 14h03

 

Firstly off to Desert Cool in Edenvale for a check on the T-Max 9500 clutch.  Winch removed and repair attempted.  This was not fully successful so I asked for a replacement and Desert Cool agreed, but had to go to Pretoria as the only one in stock was there.  Back to Adel's home after the refitting of the winch and off to the shops for final provisioning.

 

Odo: 108140

Trip: 729.7 (147.2)

GPS: 143

 

Friday 5th August

Johannesburg to Khutse 19.

03h28 - 16h57

 

A 3h30 am departure ex Sunninghill.  Met up with Carol and Neil at McDonalds on N1, then reversed and onto Magaliesberg Road.  Waited for Nic who had to return home as he had left his spectacles behind.  Once Nic rejoined us we went on via Magaliesberg and Koster with Neil leading.  First problems with the Toyota was that Nic’s 29 MHz radio receive speaker was not working.  Then to Koster, Zeerust and crossed the border at Ramotswa.  Formalities at the border were very quick and efficient on both sides.  From there via the tar road to Molepolole where we refuelled (including three jerry cans), filled water tanks (40 in vehicle, 20 in plastic and 20 in a blue jerry can.  Departed for Khutse, stopping at the “Pub with No Name” for some quick refreshment.  After Lethlakeng, as we headed up the cutline to Khutse, we were passed by some brandewyn and boepens guys who appeared to be on the way to the new Khutse Lodge. 

Entrance to Khutse at the new gate was no problem, and bookings were made for Khutse 19, then Bape (Xaka) followed by Piper #2 and Tau Pan.  P120 + P30 pppn + P50 for vehicle pd.

 

Entering the reserve we drove all the way around Khutse pans #1 and #2, seeing plenty of game around - mainly gemsbok and springbok.  We then headed for Campsite #19 for our first camp.  Reasonable ablutions (seen as the standard throughout CKGR) were provided, consisting of a bucket shower and long drop in separate split pole enclosures on a concrete base.  Peter and Adel made macaroni cheese (with the bacon done separately for Carol and Selwyn).  Jackals were heard throughout the night.

 

Odo: 108784

Trip: 1374.6 (644.9)

GPS: 629

 

Saturday 6th August

Khutse 19 to Bush Camp at S22.61027 E023.83454. 

(Planned was Khutse 19 to Xaka)

11h06 - 17h12

 

The morning saw two emaciated domestic dogs in our Khutse campsite. Wondered what the hell to do about them.  Decided to feed them and then report the incident at Xade. 

 

We had a late departure after 11h00, planned 10h00.  Travelled through thick sand from the time we left, with some low range necessary as far as Bape.  Stopped driving at 17h10 to bushcamp as Xaka was not possible because of our late departure.  Not much game seen apart from Gemsbok and Ostrich. 

 

Had our first experience of the CKGR BuMpS - Whack, WhAcK, WHACK.  BTDT.  No need to repeat this experience.  Ever.  Average speed was less than 20 km/h and was very rough on the passengers who were flung around a fair bit. Jackets, pillows etc, in the storage nets kept falling over us and had to be shoved/held back. We decided to invest in kidney belts before doing this section again!

 

The bushcamp was great and allowed testing of the Howling Moon shower cubicle and the 12v shower pump which worked a treat.  We each had a great shower with about 7 litres of water.

 

The stars that night were absolutely incredible.  Pitch black skies.  Zillions of stars.  Snap, crackle pop of a great campfire.  Carol and Neil treated us to prawns.  Really excellent!

 

Odo: 108901

Trip: 1491.5 (116.9)

GPS: 111

 

Sunday 7th August

Bush Camp to Piper Pans via Xade

(bypassing Xaka turnoff)

08h39 - 15h20

 

Earlyish start to try and make up lost time.  We eventually got going at 08h40, Nic going in front and disappearing into the distance.  The last 15 km into Xade was pure hell with multi tracks, all bad, deep sand and the BuMpS with more battering of passengers.  We eventually arrived at Xade and found a tap, which was promptly used to replenish the 20 litre jerry can – so showers were on again!  We were then asked to register at the Wildlife Camp - They were keen on information regarding the pump at Xaka, but as we had not been there were unable to report.  Here we met the first others we had seen since entering at Khutse two days previously, These people were entering at Xade and heading for Pipers Pan #1, same routing as we had planned.  Here we also heard that Nic had passed through about 15 minutes ahead of us. 

 

Gareth took some photos of tamish ground squirrels and a yellow mongoose that seemed to live in the same burrows in the camp. In fact, the whole CKGR is inundated with ground squirrels and we came close to squashing them a few times as they ran towards the vehicle and there was not way of swerving out for them without overturning the Landys!

 

We then left for Piper Pan and caught up to Nic who was waiting for us (and harvesting wood), then found Campsite #2 easily, a kilometre or two short of the pan.  Because of this we were unaware of the delights of the pan until the next morning when we dropped down the hill from the pump house.  The provided shower here was fine, but the LD toilet fly-infested.  Most of us decided to rather use a spade than brave the flies.  Nice birding in camp.  We heard lions and jackal close by several times during the night.

 

Note to others doing the transit from Khutse to Xade (or the other way around) – Allow at least two full days for this section.  There is good camping at Bape, Xaka, and the spot we marked. You will know how to drive in sand after this stretch.

 

Odo: 109088

Trip: 1678.6 (187.1)

GPS: 181

 

Monday 8th August

Piper Pan via Tau Pan to Deception Valley

09h03 - 16h19

 

The two Land Rovers dropped to the pan while waiting for Nic to finish packing, and enjoyed seeing gemsbok, springbok, jackal, wildebeest and other wildlife on the pan.  The birding was fantastic.  Not much water, just a bit of mud here and there.  Close to Campsite #1, we saw Kalahari Blackmaned Lion with a number of lionesses and juveniles. 

 

The next stage was to Deception Valley via Tau Pan.  Arriving at Tau Pan we discovered that the campsite here is in an awesome setting, right at Pan level under some trees.  A MUST return spot.  A really great spot, so a lunch break was taken.

 

The scenery was absolutely beautiful; billiard table flat, yellow grasslands with hard scrub here and there. Clear skies, clean air unspoilt vistas of open plain after open plain – the way it must have been for many thousands of years, without human intervention. It was very hard to imagine Bushmen or anyone else living here. There were plenty of healthy, fat Gemsbok all around.

 

However, because of the time constraints in getting to Maun and 3rd bridge the next day (for the mokoro trip on 10th), we decided to press on to Deception Valley / Deception Pan.  En-route we collected a dead tree and then found a suitable unoccupied campsite at Deception Pan #1.

 

Many night noises were heard, including hyena, jackal and lion.  Common opinion was that the pans in the north of the CKGR are amazing and well worth a revisit.

 

Odo: 109248

Trip: 1838.6 (160.0)

GPS: 153

 

Tuesday 9 August

Deception Valley to 3rd Bridge in Moremi

via Kuke Corner, Makalamabedi Cutline and Maun.

07h47 - 18h41

 

From campsite, cruised around the pan and then onto the track towards the Matsweri Gate.  Just as we were crossing the pan, we spotted cheetah and cubs at a kill about 100m into the pan.  About 5 jackals were harassing the cheetah and the cubs were being given lessons in chasing jackal.  We spent a good 30 minutes watching this interplay before reluctantly leaving.  Made our way to Matsweri gate, dropped off our garbage in the designated bin, and then exited, turning left along the fence cutline to Kuke Corner.  At Kuke Corner we angled to the right to take the Makalamabedi Cutline along the Vet fence towards the Boteti River.

 

Although wide and open, the cutline was extremely corrugated and going was tough, right through to the Makalamabedi Vet Control on the tar road.  Nic once again had set off in front and arranged to meet us in Maun at the Toyota dealer.  Maun was a short hop from the vet fence / tar road junction and we gratefully arrived.  No diesel available at Riley’s, so off to the BP to refuel and replenish water.  Also to the Spar and the bottle store for other replenishment, then to Travel Wild near the airport where we confirmed and paid our mokoro trips from Mboma Boat station for the 10th.  This meant we HAD to get into Moremi that evening and make our way to 3rd bridge campsite so that we could make it to Mboma boat station by 8am.  Tall order but were told it would be a 3 hour trip, therefore doable - just.

 

However, we still made time for some really great coffee at Hilary’s, a very nice coffee shop near the airport, then to find Nic who had been to provision.  After a quick stop at Nando's we set off for Shorobe and Moremi.  At South Gate, the usual discussion about no bookings, please can we camp?  We were given the usual story about non-functioning ablutions and non-functioning showers, and being full, but were eventually allowed in and told to pay on exit at North Gate.  The group eventually made it to 3rd Bridge after 6pm, just as it was getting dark.  All camped at Campsite 5. 

 

Nic rustled up a light meal of cold chicken and salad – just what we needed.

 

We were woken up after midnight by the sound of tumbling ammo boxes - a hyena was pinching one of the ammo boxes.  We had thought that all the food was safely in the vehicle but had forgotten about the snacks and biscuits in the one ammo box.  Eventually recovered the ammo box about 100m away, where the hyena had devoured the Nick Nacks and messed everything else.  Back to camp and to sleep.

 

Odo: 109620

Trip: 2210.5 (371.9)

GPS: 361

 

Wednesday 10 August

3rd Bridge.

Mboma Boat Station (Mokoro trip from Kgori Safaris)

 

Arrived at the boat station at am and waited around in the cold wind till 9am before finally setting off. Fortunately carol had some very welcome sherry for every one and long tracksuit pants for me to keep the cold at bay.

 

The mokoro trip was everything we expected - good birding and a poler who KNEW the birds. Only downer was that the water was a bit low so the view for much of the trip was just of papyrus.  A better option here would be to take the motorboat option (more expensive) to get out into open water, and then take the mokoro for the peace and quiet.  Had lunch on an island and headed back.

 

For future reference, there does not seem to be a need to do the booking via an agent in Maun (P100 booking fee).  There are plenty mokoros and polers at Mboma Boat Station and it should be possible to just pitch and get organised if you have the time.  Mokoros can be booked by the day or hour and some people book them for an afternoon or morning only, which could mean that they are not available on the day/time that you want them.  Most polers are good with the local birdlife, especially the LBJs.  Full day mokoro hire was P430 for two.

 

We arrived back at camp where the non-mokoro participants had moved us to the 3rd bridge Main Campsite into a stunning spot down at the water, close to an impressive sausage tree.  

 

Ablutions at 3rd bridge are very limited in number and primitive. Although there are flushing toilets, one was blocked and overflowed regularly while we were there.

 

Here we heard that the Toyota would have to return to Maun as the clutch release bearing was highly suspect.  This would mean an extra day in Moremi and some reshuffling of other plans.  No problem as the group felt a bit of chill time was in order, as well as a laundry gap being needed.  Stay in camp and do some birding, do some laundry, do some serious cleaning.  During the night hyenas dragged Nic's Engel fridge 30m into the bush, and also found Gareth's shoe to be tasty.

 

Odo: 109620

Trip: 2210.5 (0.0)

GPS: 0

 

Thursday 11 August

3rd bridge

 

After recovering shoes and fridges from the bush, we had a wonderful chill day.  No driving.  At all.  Washed clothes, reorganised packing of Land rover, and refilled all water tanks after discovering that the water from the BP in Maun was not suitable for human consumption and had contaminated the vehicle tank and the jerry can.  Tanks had to be rinsed twice to get them clean.  Lugging a full jerry can about 100m is NOT funny.  Repeating this 4 times is even less funny. 

 

Watch the baboons at 3rd bridge - they are VERY bold. 

Early evening and Nic returned with some newly acquired friends (from Germany) and also with a new clutch release bearing.  Little did we know what was to happen to the Toyota next.

 

Bonus 1 - the shower water was HOT as one of the overland guys (Thanks Isaac!) had fixed and lit the donkey.

 

Bonus 2 - The roof top tent opening looked directly at the rising sun.  Nothing beats watching the rising sun with coffee and rusks seen from the RTT "stoep".  It was wonderful to hear the hippo grunts every night, right on our “doorstep”.

 

Downer - the international jetway from Johannesburg to Europe passes RIGHT over 3rd bridge and the sound of jetliners passing overhead, even 11km up, was intrusive.

 

Odo: 109620

Trip: 2210.5 (0.0)

GPS: 0

 

Friday 12 August

3rd Bridge to Savuti

via North Gate, Kwai River, Mababe Gate and Sand Ridge Road

08h27 - ~16h30

 

We had an uneventful drive to North Gate, not much game around, but some birds at the pans en route.  Then we crossed 4th bridge, stopping for the compulsory Kodak moment, cleared the park, and worked our way through the maze of Kwai Village and on to the Kwai River road. 

 

Now this is a game drive, but the destruction caused by the elephants is awesome.  How the environment will ever recover is a matter of concern.  But, the game along the river is plentiful, and the birding outstanding.  We promised ourselves a return visit one day to leisurely observe the goings on at the river

 

On we went, to Mababe Gate and then into Chobe.  It was decided to take the sand ridge road to Savuti Camp.  Compared to the CKGR, this sand was a doddle and we made good progress.  Nic had picked up 2 more vehicles of “lost” Germans who tagged along in our GPS slip stream to Savuti.

 

About 5km from Savuti Camp the blow struck.  A call from Nic advised that he had lost rear traction and there was an ugly noise coming from his diff. 

 

 All stopped and a quick look under Nic's vehicle confirmed a nice hole in the diff, lots of smoke and a strong smell of hypoid oil.  A short consultation,  many clucking sounds, expert nods and grunts later, and it was agreed that Nic would remove his rear propshaft, and one of the new arrivals would accompany him to camp, assisting where necessary as he would only have front wheel drive.

 

Savuti camp is located in thick, black sand and thorns. You almost need 4-wheel drive tackies and thick socks to get to the ablutions and back.  We almost got stuck in the camp and had to use low range to park the vehicles.  Pleasantly surprised with luke cold water but quite clean facilities. These would, however, be insufficient when the camp is full and very busy.  Not a place to spend more than one night and then only if you have to.  Bush camping could be a better option.

 

The Savuti main camp ablutions have been improved and are now elephant proof.  Plenty of ellies at the water hole.  Fish Kedgeree supper by Peter and Adel.

               

Nic arrived, but worried, as the sandy trek to Kasane was ahead of us, and returning to Maun was a no-no.  Lions and elephants made a lot of noise that night.

 

I lost the GPS external antenna due to a cable break at the BNC connector caused by the Garmin dashboard mount which cracked, allowing the GPS V to swivel in its mount, thus banging the co-ax against the windscreen.  The loss of the GPS antenna necessitated turning off the GPS for the last few km before Savuti.

 

Odo: ~109780 (estimate)

Trip: ~2370.5 (estimate) (160.0)

GPS: (estimate, faulty) 153

 

Saturday 13 August

Savuti to Kasane (Toro Lodge)

via Katchikau and Ngoma.

12h18 - 18h08

 

Nic was up before daylight, clanging and tinkering, trying to make the Toyota road worthy.  I spent much time working with Nic sorting out the hole in the diff housing.  Nic removed the housing, and panel-boated some tin to fit the shape of the housing.  This was pop-riveted over the hole and sealed with Q-Bond.  After refitting the housing, oil was inserted through the German rubber seal.  The rear prop shaft was left off, and Nic elected to head for Kasane along the Forest road, which gave the shortest distance to tar.  It was agreed that we would follow and tow him whenever he got stuck.

 

While vehicle repairs were being done, some of the group spent the morning watching 24 lions attack a baby elephant. There was a dreadful expectation that it would be killed that day, yet, by mid afternoon the lions had lost interest and the mother Ellie escaped with her baby – even though it had some wounds sown its back.

 

Eventually left late, almost afternoon and headed for Gcoha Gate and the Forest cutline.  Nick required towing three or four times, but managed an admirable job in the sometimes very thick sand.  The Td5 had to do some serious pulls, both forwards and backwards to get Nic going. The forest cutline route meant we missed out on the Gobatshaa water holes and possibly seeing more animals in Savuti.

 

Also spotted some derelict graders (photos sent to Hennie) and some election posters on Baobab trees.

 

The road from Kachikau to Ngoma is possibly the worst road I have ever travelled.  Corrugations so hard, deep and severe that maximum speed was limited to about 25 km/h, despite a speed limit of 60 or 80 km/h.  We were all glad to see the tar at Ngoma.  Here we discovered that the Tdi had broken a brake pipe.  This was crimped off and we made our way to Kasane.  

Because of the late arrival Chobe Safari Lodge Campsite was full and we set off to Toro Lodge where the last two chalets were snatched up by Peter and Adel and Carol and Neil.  Nic elected to camp and Gareth claimed the RTT for the night.  Toro Lodge is a good alternative to Chobe Safari Lodge, just short of trees and shade, but compensating with 220v and private ablutions for each campsite.

 

Good scrub down had by all, and off to Kasane for a night on the town.  We chose the wrong restaurant and were (mis)treated to disgusting food.  Go to the Old House, NOT the Old Bank!

 

Odo: 109986

Trip: 2576.2 (205.7)

GPS: 187

 

Sunday 14th August

Toro Lodge to Chobe Safari Lodge

 

A continental breakfast was included in the rate at Toro Lodge, so the four chalet-dwellers pigged out, and then went off to Chobe Safari Lodge to claim a campsite.  Unfortunately Neil left his money bag hanging over the back of one of the chairs in the dining room and got a big fright later in the day, looking for his money. Fortunately some honest soul had handed it in and a very grateful Neil retrieved all their money and documents intact after church that day.

 

 

Managed to check in and get the best sites up on the river bank, against the game Reserve fence.  Also booked for the boat afternoon cruise (P170 pp including park entry).  Nic elected to stay at Toro as he felt the facilities were better, and in any event, he would be unable to continue the trip because he was now limited to front-wheel drive only.  So only two vehicles migrated to Chobe.

 

The camp site is clean and neat in spite of being very busy, with overlanders coming and going every day. The camp has electric fencing, spotlights and patrolling guards to ensure that the hippos and ellies stay on their side of the fence.  Ablutions had plenty of hot water and space for washing dishes and clothes.  Real luxury for us weary, dirty travellers! Just be careful in the ablution blocks – one lady lost all her clothes while in the shower.

 

The afternoon game cruise was outstanding with many close encounters with hippo, buffalo, elephant, crocodiles etc.  The birding was amazing and OB (the boat captain) knew his birds exceptionally well.  Highlight for me was a malachite kingfisher, but fish eagles, open-billed stork, squacco heron and many more were ticked (see list at end of report).

 

Dinner at Toro lodge camp site, pasta and gravy, much to Nic’s displeasure (as his suggestions had not been followed by his fellow travellers). An American student travelling through Africa had been adopted by Selwyn and joined the whole group, including the Germans, for dinner.

 

Ablutions at Toro were unique in that every campsite had its own private bathroom, scullery and electric points, but sounds from the road and neighbouring dogs barking intrude and the peace.

 

 

Odo: 110016

Trip: 2608.2 (32.0)

GPS: 31

 

Monday 15th August

Chobe Safari Lodge

 

Chill day.  Replenished supplies from both Spar and NBS (Nearest Bottle Store) and then took a drive to the Kazangula border post to check on costs for the next day's trip to Zimbabwe and Victoria Falls.  We filled up on fuel and water at CSL.  Good birding.  Neil had the Tdi's brakes attended to – he would need to return to Johannesburg with brakes on only three wheels.  Supper was a vegetable curry by Peter and Adel. 

 

This was the last dinner with the whole extended group present. Nic had gone fishing in the afternoon and returned triumphantly with 2 bream, which he would cook for the Germans in the morning, before returning to Johannesburg along the tar. (Nata, Francistown and Martin’s Drift)

 

 

 

Odo: 110053

Trip: 2643.6 (35.4)

GPS: 33

 

Tuesday 16 August

Chobe Safari Lodge to Victoria Falls and return

 

This day was used to travel to Victoria Falls in the Tdi.  The falls were amazing as usual – the amount of water flowing through the gorge has to be seen to be believed.  After the walk around the falls, Gareth went off to Wild Horizons for the Flying Fox, Foofie Slide and Gorge Swing.  We all accompanied him to this and it was good to see how the adrenalin activity worked!  Back to town and off to Victoria Falls Hotel and its colonial splendour for lunch.  Then the curio market where all had a good time bargaining.  Gareth and Neil bought drums - big mistake!

 

In our absence the camp had been raided by baboons who managed to dislodge 2 heavy ammo boxes to get to a 3rd one at the bottom. Spaghetti and custard was scattered everywhere. Fortunately the guard had scared them off and secured our provisions before they wreaked too much havoc. Also in camp were monkeys. banded mongoose, and bush pigs.

 

Gareth's activities US$90, plus US$20 for the t-shirt, US$30 for the DVD.

Snack Lunch at VF Hotel - ZAR240 for 3.

Entrance to Victoria Falls - ZAR210 for 3.

 

Back at the Botswana Border, the drums were tagged by Botswana customs and the skins had to be removed because of Botswana's Foot and Mouth regulations.  End of drum!

 

Some other overlanders had arrived and camped next to us, and obviously had different priorities as what went on the roof rack - see picture in Photo  Album.

 

Mince Bolognaise and Rice by Peter and Adel.

 

Odo: 110053

Trip: 2643.6 (0.0)

GPS: 0

 

Wednesday 17 August

Kasane to Nata Bird Sanctuary

via Pandamatenga and Hunters Road

09h35 – 17h32 (Hunters Rd - 10h41 to 15h57)

 

Because of delays and chill days there was now not enough time to still do the western delta (Tsodilo and Drotskys), so it was agreed to do the southern part of the Hunters Road (between Pandamatenga and Nata) and to overnight at Nata Bird Sanctuary, before heading off to Kubu Island.

 

The trip along the tar to Pandamatenga was uneventful, then the left turn towards the border to find the Hunters Road (on the right, just before the border post) fairly easy.  Initially Hunter’s Road was a wide graded cutline, but this soon changed to a middelmannetjie track, which was not too difficult so reasonable speeds were possible.  The black/grey cotton soil patches were obvious and it was easy to see that these could be a major problem in the wet or even damp season.  Some game was present, mainly wildebeest and giraffe, and also some roan antelope, but all game was exceptionally skittish. 

 

We mostly drove on a ridge next to the pans and looked down over the, now familiar, flat landscape of rolling grass and some thorn trees. Quite spectacular and worth the decision to take this route.

 

Just near the southern end of the road we encountered a small section of very deep sand which required low range to negotiate.  Then it was the end of Hunters Road and the track back to the Kasane / Nata main road was travelled.  After reaching the main road we encountered the vet fence, but had no problems in getting through (meat was well hidden), after dipping all shoes we had with us, even those not being worn.

 

Passed through Nata and on southwards, past Nata Lodge to Nata Bird Sanctuary, where we were shown a campsite.  The gent's facilities had no roof, the ladies was adequate, but water luke cold.  No paper in the toilets, Building rubble, and the continual road noise from passing long-haul trucks.  All in all, this place was a big disappointment.  In the morning, off to the hides at the pan edge, but these were also in a derelict condition.  Not a good place for a night stop.  Rather use Nata Lodge (see next day).

 

Odo: 110421

Trip: 3010.8 (367.2)

GPS: 357

 

Thursday 18 August

Nata Bird Sanctuary to Lekhubu Island

10h26 - 14h57

 

Left Nata Sanctuary earlyish and stopped to check out the facilities at Nata Lodge, and to have some very nice coffee in the wild bird feeding area.  For an extra P10 per night (but no vehicle charge) we could have had much better facilities.  A quick shop in Nata for some veggies and slap chips, then left onto the Maun Road and left a few clicks further on at the Lekhubu sign to take the track along the old pan shore road.

 

Initially the road was acceptable, but soon turned into soft talcum powder dust with very tough and slow going, bordering on low-range stuff.

 

Passed a few baobabs along the way with the compulsory stop for piccies, but had to press on to ensure an arrival at Kubu with enough time for exploring. 

The last few kilometres along the pan were very rough, and after arrival we were shown a nice campsite with working long drop.

 

But flies were everywhere and a constant irritation until sunset.  Some serious fly eradication program is required to make Kubu a better place.  Surely some regularly filled / replaced buckets of fly bait will help to solve the problem?

 

I had every intention of heading out to the confluence point in the middle of the pan, but after 2km (of the 22 required) found the going to be a bit sticky and reluctantly turned around.  No sense in getting stuck chasing for a confluence.

 

Drove around the island, viewed the ruins and took a million photos. Awesome place, one wonders who lived there and what stories the stones could tell if they could speak.

 

Refreshing bush shower under a big tree to wash off the dust and the flies, followed by a decadent evening of smoked oysters, ice cold sparkling wine, and a braai and communal salads - steaks done to a "T" on acacia thorn wood harvested along Hunter's Road.

 

The moon was one day from full and those who said Kubu is awesome at full moon were absolutely correct.  If you go to Kubu, make it at full moon.  The baobabs and rocks make the island a photographer's paradise.  Don’t forget to take a walk on the pan by moonlight, followed by coffee and chocolate before bed.

 

 

Odo: 110587

Trip: 3177.2 (166.4)

GPS: 162

 

Friday 19 August

Lekhubu Island to Khama Rhino Sanctuary (Serowe)

09h11 - 13h15

 

Packed up and reluctantly left Kubu just after 09h00, after having to inflate a slow leaking tyre.  We took the southern exit road which turns across the pan just near the ruins.  Going was fine across the pans, everything hard and dry.  At the vet fence, we donated our left-over veggies to the gate attendant.  Easyish going, some sand, some rock, nothing startling.  Uneventful trip to Khama with some stops along the way to buy weirdly shaped pieces of wood, and take some pics.

 

At Khama, we spent some time in the (rickety) bird hide. We had a nice sighting of crested francolin. Saw 4 of the 15 rhino, including baba and mama.

 

Supper was pasta with puchanesta sauce (Neil and Carol). We were all very aware of this being the “last supper” and finished off the last wine and chocolate.   Ablutions had plenty of hot water but no electricity. Nice campsite but very confusing roads and the map doesn’t help much to navigate around the place. After travelling thousands of kilometres we got seriously lost for the first time within the Khama Rhino Reserve!

 

 

Odo: 110859

Trip: 3449.5 (272.3)

GPS: 265

 

Saturday 20 August

Serowe to Johannesburg

via Martins Drift, Ellisras, Vaalwater and Nylstroom

08h52 - 16h46

 

Another one of those predictably uneventful days – you know the holiday is almost at an end.  Had a lazy pack up at Khama, then down the tar road through Serowe and on to Palapye, where we tried out the new Nando’s using our last remaining Pula.  The girls browsed through the Palapye Woolworths, appeasing the built-up withdrawal symptoms.  Once we were full of Nando’s, we pressed on through Martin’s Drift (no problems, very quick) and then over the Limpopo to Groblersbrug (big attitude problem).  We chose routing via Ellisras, where we refuelled, then via Vaalwater and Nylstroom, and finally down the N1 all the way to Johannesburg.

 

Odo: 111470

Trip: 4060.4 (610.9)

GPS: 596

 

Sunday 21 August

Johannesburg to Durban

10h49 - 17h02

 

Mostly a boring trip.

 

Decided to miss the Free State (Villiers) toll, and actually enjoyed the drive down the R103.  We were taken off the N3 at Ladysmith because of an accident (soda ash spillage), and allowed to rejoin after Colenso. 

 

Put in a splash and dash of fuel at the Estcourt Ultra City, just enough to make it to the truck stop in Pinetown.  Home at about 5pm after filling up.  Weather was miserable and rainy in Durban.  Unpacked the Land Rover and contemplated the return to the salt-mine on Monday.

 

Odo: 112088

Trip: 4678.3 (617.9)

GPS: 604

 

 

Highs and Lows

 

Highs

 

Lows

·        Packing/repacking every day for 5 days

·        Not being able to spend more time in Deception Valley and Tau Pan.

·        The dust, sand, corrugations and thorns.

·        Confusing tracks all over the place in some areas (thanks T4A).

·        Relatively few animals in Moremi and Savuti

·        Aircraft sounds in the Moremi

·        Missing the waterholes at Gobatshaa

 

 

Lessons learnt/tips for next time

·        Many migrating bird species only return to the area after September

·        “Less is more”. Create sufficient time to explore interesting areas e. g. Deception valley and Kwai River. Rather plan to spend 2 nights in most camps.

·        You (almost) need a GPS to find Kubu!

·        Tie down all loose stuff in the vehicles to ensure it is not flung around on the bad roads.

·        Don’t fill up with water at the BP garage in Maun, it is dirty.

·        NEVER, EVER leave anything that smells of food outside at night. – Not even shoes…!

·        Chobe river cruise is a must.

·        It is possible to get into Moremi (and most of Botswana) without prior bookings.

·        Carry enough food and water to ensure you are self-sufficient for 3 days.

·        The upper CKGR is well worth visiting and you could possible do it with one vehicle only.  For the Southern part, because of its remoteness and few visitors you must have support vehicles as getting stranded could be very tricky.

·        Rotate evening meal duties so that a different couple buys and cooks and washes up for different meals. That way everybody has some evenings off to shower, watch sunsets, manicure nails (!), write in their diaries etc.

 

Click here to view the Trip Images !

 

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

 

Fuel Used

 

Full ex Durban (Vehicle tank only)

Done on Tuesday 2nd (price increase on 3rd). 

Used this fuel to office and back on 3rd.

 

Topped up in Pretoria on 4th August.

108 093 Km, 60.66 litres, R350.01

 

Filled up at Molepolole, plus 3 x 20 litre Jerry cans.

108 536 Km, 155.86 litres, P578.24, R728.58, R4.67/litre

 

Filled up at Maun, no Jerry cans, 1 x Jerry can still not used.

109 462 Km, 87.76 litres, P334.36, R421.29, R4.80/litre

 

Filled vehicle tanks only at Kazangula

110 033 Km, 77.81 litres, P296.46, R373.54, R4.80/litre

 

Topped up at Nata,

110 406 Km, 40.0 litres, P150.00, R189.00, R4.72/litre

 

Filled up vehicle tanks only at Ellisras,

111 141 Km, 107.57 litres, R614.22

 

Splash and dash at Estcourt Ultra City,

111 915 Km, 26.5 litres, R150.04

 

Filled up vehicle tanks only in Pinetown,

112 084 Km, 97.66 litres, R515.67

 

Note - 1 x 20 litre Jerry can not used. -20.00 litres, -P74.20, -R93.40 .

 

 

Total Fuel bought

 

653.82 litres costing R3342.71, R5.11/litre.

 

Accounting for the 20 litres unused in Jerrycans

633.82 litres, R3 249.31, R5.13/litre

 

Pula Conversion rate:  R1.26 = P1.00

 

Top-up Oil and other fluids - Nil.

 

Total Distance Travelled:        4678.3 km

Litres per 100km:              13.548

Km per litre:                 7.38

C/km:                                69.45

 

 

 

Accommodation Costs

 

CKGR, Moremi, Savuti (total 8 nights)

P120 pppd entrance, P30 pppn camping charge, P50 pd for vehicle.

3 pax = P500 per day.

Total P4000.00

 

Toro Safari Lodge (1 night)

P40 pppn camping.

Chalet P422 pn

Total P462.00

 

Chobe Safari Lodge (3 nights)

P50 pppn camping.

Total P450.00

 

Nata Bird Sanctuary (1 night)

P30 pppn + P10 for the vehicle.

Total P100.00

 

Lekhubu Island (1 night)

Entrance P20 pppd

Vehicle P25 pd

Camping P25 pppd

+ 10% VAT

Total P176.00

 

Khama Rhino Sanctuary (1 night)

P11 pppd park fee

P16.50 pd vehicle fee

P27.5 pppd camping

+ 10% VAT

P145.20

 

Total Accommodation Costs P5333.20

(P1777.73 pp, P118.51 pppn, R149.33 pppn)

 

Forex

Accommodation P5333.20

Fuel bought in Bots - P1359.16

Tolls P60.00

Misc expenses P247.64

Pula exchanged P7000.00

 

Road Tolls and taxes

 

Botswana

P20 for annual tax.

P40 per entry for 3rd party.

 

Zimbabwe

USD 15 for Carbon Tax

USD 25 for Insurance

Temporary Import Permit - Free

 

Photographic

 

Digital Still

Pentax *ist DS 6.3 MPx (Peter)

18 – 55 mm AF Pentax Zoom

80 – 300 mm AF Sigma Zoom

170 – 500 mm AF Sigma Zoom

Canon Powershot S30 3.2 MPx (Gareth)

BenQ 2.1 Mpx (Adel)

 

Manfrotto Millennium Tripod

 

Film Still

Pentax MZ-7

Film cameras not removed from bags :-)

 

Video

Nil

 

Ancillary Overland Equipment Used and Performance during trip

 

Waeco 50 litre Fridge Freezer – Flawless.

HP iPAQ 2210h – Main Use for Birding, Flawless

HP nx9010 Laptop – Flawless

Garmin GPS V, T4A Maps 5.08 – Flawless

Garmin GPS V Vehicle Mount – Cracked and Unserviceable

GPS DataLogger (T4A Unit) – Flawless

Cadac #7 and #10 cylinders – Needed dusting out daily before use

Howling Moon 1.4m RTT – Flawless

Howling Moon Campsite Cubicle – Ok, but zip could be better

Howling Moon 2.5m Leisure-Awn – Flawless but a bit fiddly.

Leisure Quip Turbo shower – Flawless.  Good value for money.

Leisure Quip HD Compressor (30 amp) - Flawless

NL Dual Battery System with Monitor – Flawless

T-Max 9500 Winch – one use (move a tree) – Flawless

Frontrunner Expedition Roof Rack – Flawless – some chafing of slats

Frontrunner Ladder - Flawless

Frontrunner Twin Gas Bottle Holders – Design could be improved, but OK

Frontrunner Long Range Tank – OK

Frontrunner 40 litre LH Fender Water Tank - OK

Frontrunner Dual Jerry can Holders - OK

Frontrunner Spade Bracket – Very Poor design.  Not recommended.

Branch Deflectors (Rope Construction). - OK

 

Bird List

We used Roberts Multimedia Birds of Southern Africa (PDA Version),

Newman’s and Sasol

 

127 Species ticked.

 

Full Tick List

 

Roberts  

English Name

Date

1

Ostrich

06/08/2005

58

Reed Cormorant

11/08/2005

60

Darter

11/08/2005

62

Grey Heron

13/08/2005

64

Goliath Heron

14/08/2005

66

Great White Egret

14/08/2005

67

Little Egret

12/08/2005

72

Squacco Heron

14/08/2005

74

Greenbacked Heron

17/08/2005

84

Black Stork

16/08/2005

87

Open billed Stork

12/08/2005

89

Marabou Stork

09/08/2005

90

Yellow billed Stork

14/08/2005

91

Sacred Ibis

12/08/2005

94

Hadeda Ibis

14/08/2005

95

African Spoonbill

14/08/2005

99

White-faced Duck

12/08/2005

102

Egyptian Goose

12/08/2005

116

Spurwinged Goose

14/08/2005

118

Secretary bird

08/08/2005

122

Cape Vulture

06/08/2005

126

Black Kite

19/08/2005

127

Black shouldered Kite

06/08/2005

132

Tawny Eagle

13/08/2005

140

Martial Eagle

17/08/2005

146

Bateleur

06/08/2005

148

African Fish Eagle

12/08/2005

162

Pale Chanting Goshawk

06/08/2005

167

Pallid Harrier

09/08/2005

182

Greater Kestrel

18/08/2005

186

Pygmy Falcon

13/08/2005

189

Crested Francolin

19/08/2005

194

Red billed Francolin

08/08/2005

203

Helmeted Guineafowl

06/08/2005

230

Kori Bustard

06/08/2005

239

Black Korhaan

06/08/2005

240

African Jacana

12/08/2005

248

Kittlitz's Plover

14/08/2005

255

Crowned Plover

06/08/2005

258

Blacksmith Plover

09/08/2005

260

Wattled Plover

14/08/2005

261

Long toed Plover

14/08/2005

270

Greenshank

14/08/2005

298

Water Dikkop

14/08/2005

304

Redwinged Pratincole

14/08/2005

315

Greyheaded Gull

14/08/2005

338

Whiskered Tern

14/08/2005

343

African Skimmer

12/08/2005

352

Redeyed Dove

15/08/2005

353

African Mourning Dove

11/08/2005

355

Laughing Dove

09/08/2005

358

Greenspotted Dove

11/08/2005

361

African Green Pigeon

11/08/2005

364

Meyer's Parrot

13/08/2005

373

Grey Lourie

05/08/2005

389

Copperytailed Coucal

11/08/2005

401

Spotted Eagle Owl

07/08/2005

405

Fierynecked Nightjar

10/08/2005

426

Redfaced Mousebird

11/08/2005

428

Pied Kingfisher

11/08/2005

429

Giant Kingfisher

17/08/2005

431

Malachite Kingfisher

14/08/2005

441

Carmine Bee-eater

14/08/2005

443

Whitefronted Bee-eater

14/08/2005

447

Lilacbreasted Roller

05/08/2005

450

Broadbilled Roller

20/08/2005

451

African Hoopoe

17/08/2005

452

Redbilled Woodhoopoe

05/08/2005

455

Trumpeter Hornbill

16/08/2005

457

Grey Hornbill

17/08/2005

458

Redbilled Hornbill

06/08/2005

459

Southern Yellowbilled Hornbill

06/08/2005

461

Bradfield's Hornbill

13/08/2005

463

Southern Ground Hornbill

10/08/2005

464

Blackcollared Barbet

10/08/2005

465

Pied Barbet

18/08/2005

473

Crested Barbet

19/08/2005

486

Cardinal Woodpecker

08/08/2005

487

Bearded Woodpecker

11/08/2005

516

Greybacked Finchlark

08/08/2005

522

Wiretailed Swallow

14/08/2005

541

Forktailed Drongo

05/08/2005

547

Black Crow

06/08/2005

548

Pied Crow

05/08/2005

560

Arrowmarked Babbler

10/08/2005

562

Hartlaub's Babbler

11/08/2005

563

Pied Babbler

06/08/2005

567

Redeyed Bulbul

08/08/2005

568

Blackeyed Bulbul

11/08/2005

574

Yellowbellied Bulbul

15/08/2005

580

Groundscraper Thrush

06/08/2005

595

Anteating Chat

08/08/2005

596

Stonechat

11/08/2005

599

Heuglin's Robin

15/08/2005

613

Whitebrowed Robin

06/08/2005

615

Kalahari Robin

06/08/2005

621

Titbabbler

08/08/2005

628

Great Reed Warbler

11/08/2005

651

Longbilled Crombec

08/08/2005

657.1

Greybacked BleatingWarbler

15/08/2005

672

Rattling Cisticola

10/08/2005

675.1

Luapula Cisticola

11/08/2005

676

Chirping Cisticola

10/08/2005

685

Blackchested Prinia

08/08/2005

695

Marico Flycatcher

07/08/2005

698

Fiscal Flycatcher

17/08/2005

711

African Pied Wagtail

14/08/2005

735

Longtailed Shrike

10/08/2005

738

Swamp Boubou

11/08/2005

739

Crimsonbreasted Shrike

06/08/2005

762

Burchell's Starling

11/08/2005

763

Longtailed Starling

11/08/2005

764

Glossy Starling

05/08/2005

772

Redbilled Oxpecker

14/08/2005

779

Marico Sunbird

11/08/2005

799

Whitebrowed Sparrowweaver

06/08/2005

802

Great Sparrow

08/08/2005

803

Cape Sparrow

08/08/2005

806

Scalyfeathered Finch

08/08/2005

816

Golden Weaver

15/08/2005

818

Brownthroated Weaver

15/08/2005

821

Redbilled Quelea

08/08/2005

828

Redshouldered Widow

11/08/2005

834

Melba Finch

18/08/2005

856

Redheaded Finch

08/08/2005

869

Yelloweyed Canary

19/08/2005

878

Yellow Canary

08/08/2005