TRIP REPORT BOTSWANA JUNE 2006

Markus Jonker

Planning started off about 15 months earlier when our friends, Riaan and Wanda van Heerden, bought a new Conqueror off road trailer. They were now properly geared up for the great outdoors and we decided to plan an overlanding trip to the northern regions of Botswana. Without much effort, Wanda’s young-at-heart parents were convinced to accompany us as well.

Having visited the northern regions of Botswana twice before, we were regarded as the “experts” in the group. In proper overlanding circles we would most definitely be still regarded as novice and therefore relied heavily on the info published on the Overland and Kampvuur web based groups to finalise the routes and program.

The group consisted of the following:

Markus & Corsie Jonker with Jacques (11);

Land Rover Discovery TD5 with Conqueror Safari trailer.

Riaan & Wanda van Heerden with Surinda (12) & Christiaan (10);

Nissan Hardbody 3.3 D/Cab with Conqueror Conquest trailer.

Wim and Susan van Ree:

Isuzu 2.8DT D/Cab with rooftop tent.

DAY1: THURSDAY 22 JUNE 2006

VOLKSRUST – PRETORIA

DISTANCE: 283km

Final preparations were completed by the men while the wives and children completed their last day at school.

After a quick squad check of all the important items and documents, we left Volksrust at 14h00 and drove without any interruptions to Pretoria where we joined up with Wim and Susan.

DAY2: FRIDAY 23 JUNE 2006

PRETORIA – KHAMA RHINO SANCTUARY

DISTANCE: 600km

We left Pretoria at 06h00 with Zambesi drive already abuzz with vehicles. In Lephalale we stopped at Café-a-la-Fe (owned by Riaan’s uncle) for a quick breakfast; which turned into an entertaining two hour visit. Well fed and rested, we popped into a photo shop to get a new XD card for Wim’s digital camera which packed up the previous evening. Thereafter we headed straight for Stockpoort/Parr’s Halt border posts via the well maintained gravel road running past Matimba Power Station and Grootegeluk coal mine. We were met by extremely efficient and friendly border staff at both sides. Once through the border, we headed for Mahalapye, where we refueled at the Shell Ultracity. After missing the turn off at first, we finally headed for Serowe via the Shoshong hills on a tarred road with normal sightings of the Botswana Donkey patrolling the national roads. The speed limit for most of this route is 80kph slowing to 60kph through villages. We eventually arrived at Khama at 17h30. We had booked two campsites, but upon arrival we found that the campsites are massive. We eventually only occupied one site and it still had ample space available. It soon became dark and we were not sure exactly where the ablution facilities were. We decided to consult the T4A maps to locate the facilities. Armed with the GPS and laptop, we mounted Riaan’s vehicle for this treasure hunt, to eventually locate the ablutions only about 30 meters from our campsite!

After supper we all tucked in for a quiet nights rest. But the campsites are very close to the main road, and the continuous noise of heavy vehicles speeding by certainly does not make for a peaceful nights’ rest.

DAY3: SATURDAY 24 JUNE 2006

KHAMA RHINO SANCTUARY – KUBU ISLAND

DISTANCE: 246km

With the group crawling out of the rooftop tents at their own pace (quite entertaining to watch the old timers Wim and Susan guiding each other down the rooftop tent ladder), we enjoyed some coffee and rusks, and started to prepare the vehicles for the day’s trip to Kubu Island. We refueled at Lethlakane Caltex, while Riaan and Wanda roamed the town, searching for superglue to mend a broken fingernail!!! After enquiring about the correct route (some road works in town), we headed off for Kubu Island. Along the way we were passed by some speeding overlanders, who were obviously in u rush somewhere…

The vastness and nothingness of the dry Makgadigadi Pans are overwhelming every time I see it, and this was certainly no exception. When we eventually arrived at Kubu Island, the speedsters had already pitched camp. It became clear that they had not booked at Kubu, and needed to get there quickly to get camping spots. We were met by Wagu (one of the employees of the Gaing-O Community Trust which runs Kubu Island) on his mountain bike, and he quickly showed us to our remote campsite under a chestnut tree next to the pans. It is commended that the Trust has not yet totally commercialised the island and that the campsites are few and far apart. Each campsite has a longdrop which ponged quite a bit, and was not a pleasant experience to visit. We properly set up camp as we planned to stay for two nights, erecting the portable showers and all. As we settled next to the fire, enjoying a most spectacular sunset, we started to prepare the evening meal. We switched off all artificial lights in the camp, and the clarity of the stars was amazing. Of course all the children were wary of the wild animals which might roam around and were always in close vicinity of the fire. Shortly after Riaan quietly disappeared into the dark, the most horrendous sounds of Riaan being “attacked” by a hyena filled our campsite, bushes violently shaking etc. These comic antics all resulted in a very relaxing evening.

DAY4: SUNDAY 25 JUNE 2006

KUBU ISLAND

DISTANCE: 24km

The men got up as the skies started to turn grey, and took a leisurely stroll with our cameras heading northeast onto Sowa Pan where we captured a spectacular sunrise. Upon returning to the camp, the rest of the group had also woken up. With no travel plans for the day, time and effort was spent in preparing a proper breakfast.

Later on, the group left the campsite, armed with snacks and drinks, and most of the day was spent strolling on and around the island. The sight of the massive old and young baobabs on the rocky terrain is something one will always treasure.

Late afternoon, the ladies and children went for a drive on the pans around Kubu Island while the men attended to a stubborn National Luna fridge in the Isuzu.

DAY5: MONDAY 26 JUNE 2006

KUBU ISLAND – NTWETWE PAN

DISTANCE: 123km

We broke up camp early and took off in a north westerly direction, aiming for Chapman’s Baobab. At the Tswagong vet gate, we headed west on the wrong (southern) side of the fence, only realizing the mistake when we reached the now closed Gemba vet gate where another group of travelers were also stranded. After consulting T4A we realized that we should have gone through Tswagong before turning west (contrary to the Veronica Roodt map). Luckily this navigational error only cost us about 18 km’s both ways. With Corsie taking the wheel, we headed through Ntwetwe pan, eventually turning south west again just before Kauxae village towards Chapman’s Baobab. At some places the track was hardly visible, but we trusted the always reliable old Garmin12, showing the Baobabs being straight ahead. We arrived at Chapman’s Baobab at lunchtime. With an overlanding group from Jack’s Camp having lunch under the tree, we hung around enjoying snacks and some cold ones on the opposite side of the tree with its multiple trunks until they left. Then we roamed around and were really shocked at the evidence idiots left (by carving their names into the trunks) to show that they visited treasures like these. Later on we headed in a general southerly direction for a nights camping on the edge of Ntwetwe Pan. After confirming some directions at Jack’s Camp, we eventually set up camp. The children immediately started to run around on the vast openness and the boys soon began digging for water. At about 1m the hole started to fill slowly with brackish water. It took quite an effort from their mums to clean the sticky yellow clay from their bodies which started to itch and burn from the salt. A chilly wind started to blow as the sun set amongst the palms on the horizon. With the chilly evening, and a long day’s driving, all went into their rooftop tents soon after supper.

DAY6: TUESDAY 27 JUNE 2006

NWETWE PAN – S20.00000 E25.00000

DISTANCE: 108km

After our normal early morning snacks of coffee and rusks, we headed north towards Gweta, first stopping at Green’s Baobab. Although not as huge as Chapman’s Baobab, this fenced in tree is also a magnificent view to enjoy. In Gweta, we stopped to refill the tanks with potable water and fridges with St Louis, before we headed west and then north again along the eastern border of Nxai Pan where we stopped and set camp at S20.00000 E25.00000. Based on the number of empty toothpaste boxes and plastic bags, this beautiful site is frequently used. You are as close to Nxai Pan Park as you can get with all the wilderness night sounds. As we arrived quite early, we enjoyed a relaxing afternoon under the tent canopies, with the children always in close proximity. Everyone was reminded that we are in the heart of nature when Riaan noticed a 60cm puff adder sailing from underneath his vehicle. Using the handle of a spade, he pinned its head and picked it up to release it a distance away in the bush. “We are on his doorstep, not he on ours” was the reply from Riaan on the suggestion from someone why he didn’t kill it. We were quite surprised at its presence, thinking all snakes should be hibernating this time of the year. The rest of the evening was spent chatting and enjoying supper around the campfire in the middle of the not frequently used track.

DAY7: WEDNESDAY 28 JUNE 2006

S20.00000 E25.00000 – MAUN

DISTANCE: 194km

Early morning, after enjoying some coffee and rusks we cleared the campsite of our (and previous visitors’) presence, and left for Maun, detouring to visit Baine’s Baobabs first. Just before we arrived at the trees, we sighted the first elephant on the trip. Looking at the damage done to some of the baobabs, we could understand

why the Bots Government decided to prohibit camping around this monument. From Baine’s we decided to use the bottom track to the west, but soon tracked back when the going started to get tough, using the top road instead.

This was where our holiday almost came to an abrupt end. Upon hearing the alarm of the 12VDC to 220VAC inverter sounding in the back of my vehicle, I stopped and opened the rear door. The cables from the battery manager to the deep cycle battery were extremely hot, and suddenly the whole contraption was on fire. Thankfully, the fire extinguisher was installed next to the second battery and inverter, and with Riaan also rushing with his extinguisher, we could quickly kill the fire. All the insulation of the cables from the battery manager in the engine compartment to the rear of the Disco were melted. The Brad Harrison couplers on the tow bar (for the deep cycle battery in the trailer) as well as in the rear luggage compartment (for the deep cycle in the car) were totally destroyed. Luckily the fuses of the battery manager as well as the inverter blew, resulting in no damage being done to the Disco’s electricketry. As we were assessing the damage and removing the burnt cables, we suddenly heard a hiss from underneath the car. The hot cables burnt through the air hose to the right rear air suspension, resulting in the right rear sagging right down. Wim proposed to pull my trailer, and we limped with no right rear suspension the 23 kms on the bad track back to the tar road. The 138km tar road to Maun was a bit easier, and as soon as we had cell phone reception, I phoned the Land Rover dealer in Maun to inform them of my problem. As we drove into the dealership the workshop manager (Bruce) had already arranged to fly in a spare piping harness from their branch in Gabarone. I could only imagine the huge dent in my credit card, but had no option but to give the OK. As we had anyway planned to spend the night in Audi Camp to replenish supplies in Maun, it did not impede at all into our travel plans.

That evening, we spoiled ourselves with drinks and dinner at the on-site restaurant before retiring to our trailers. It soon became evident that Audi Camp can only be seen as an overnight stop with the constant irritating barking of dogs, braying of donkeys and roaring trucks driving by throughout the night.

DAY8: THURSDAY 29 JUNE 2006

MAUN – MANKWE

DISTANCE: 104km

After sleeping in a bit later than normal, we broke up camp and parked our trailers on the Audi premises. I was dropped of at the Land Rover Dealer, and the rest of the group headed for town to replenish our foodstuffs. The Disco eventually was ready at 13h00 and after overcoming the pleasant shock of the low bill (flown-in parts and labour just under P700,00); I first stopped at a roadside cleaning crew to vacuum most of the fire extinguisher powder, before we set off towards Mankwe lodge. Happy to leave the buzz of the “big city” of Maun behind us, we eventually arrived at Mankwe late afternoon where we were directed to our campsite at Mopani2. Each campsite is equipped with a tap, toilet, wash basin and shower bucket with the water heated next to the fire in an old jerry can. On our way from reception to the campsites we experienced the only flat tyre of the trip, with a thorn entering the inner side wall of the right rear on the Disco. We were soon treated to the sounds of jackal and hyena with an abundance of seemingly tame mice running around, eating crumbs and other food leftovers. That night we were woken by a spotted hyena visiting and emptying the rubbish bin tied to a tree only a few meters from our tents.

DAY9: FRIDAY 30 JUNE 2006

MANKWE

DISTANCE: 261km

We planned to spend the day driving to and through Kwai River. Leon at Mankwe reception warned us about the high level of Kwai River advising us not to attempt a crossing. We decided to drive up towards and enjoy a brunch at the crossing. As we headed north along the cut line, we experienced the damage done to the road by the summer’s rain. At the Kwai crossing we could see the level being quite high, and not wanting to risk drowning our vehicles, we stuck to our plan to enjoy brunch on the bank of the river. On the opposite bank, one of the locals also warned us not to attempt crossing, whilst working on his tractor which drowned a couple of days before. Meanwhile I noticed the Disco’s backend sagging again. I decided to return to Maun, being Friday and the last Land Rover garage we were to come across during the trip. Corsie accompanied me, and with

Jacques safely in the company of our friends, we set off to Maun, arriving just after 16h00. The workshop staff immediately investigated, plugging the LRNotebook into the Disco’s electricketry. The error message was cleared and the rear suspension height sensors recalibrated. All seemed fine with no visible leaks detected, and we were on our way back to Mankwe after getting some supplies from Spar. It soon became dark and just before the village of Shorobe, we noticed a lone elephant strolling through the bush, not 50 meters from the nearest dwelling. The residents however seemed not too horrified by this visitor. Later on, just beyond Sankuyo village, a hyena was galloping in the dirt road, soon heading into the vegetation. As I pulled over to search with the car’s spots for the animal, it galloped a few meters further on across the road again. Although a relative short sighting, we concluded that it was a brown hyena, based on the long hair etc. When we arrived at Mankwe, the campfire was already blazing. After we enjoyed another late super supper and conversation, we retired to bed, only to be woken again by the resident spotted hyena.

DAY10: SATURDAY 01 JULY 2006

MANKWE

DISTANCE: 116km

We decided to spend the day driving around Kwai River via Mababe Village to explore the area north of Moremi. The men first visited the lodge reception, to inform

them of the empty potable water head tank at the Mopani campsites and collecting firewood for the evening. We spent a blissful few hours at a picnic spot, preparing brunch (of course never too far from the safety of our vehicles). As usual the pace was leisurely slow, not as much due to the bad roads but stopping looking at birds, other wildlife etc. We saw the normal abundance of elephants, hippo’s etc on the Kwai and unfortunately had to turn back late afternoon in order to return to Mankwe before sunset. Driving around some dense vegetation, we suddenly came upon an juvenile elephant crossing the track only a few meters ahead of us. It is uncertain who got the biggest fright, as his trumpet sounded more like a horrified scream than anything else before it mock charged. It must have been the quickest a Disco stopped, selected in reverse, and backed up as quick as the twisting track allowed, while instructing Corsie to “take a photo… take a photo”. She wasn’t too impressed… Luckily Riaan was quite a distance behind us, allowing us to get out of the way safely. Back at Mankwe, we had water again at the “ablution” and each could enjoy

a warm shower while dinner was prepared. We decided to spend the next day resting at the camp and not visit Moremi as planned due to the abundance of animals we had already seen. That night we were again visited by our resident hyena.

DAY11: SUNDAY 02 JULY 2006

MANKWE

DISTANCE: 14km

As we planned to spend the day doing nothing, we got up at leisure, washing some garments and just hanging around. Later we realized the head tank was empty again, and not wanting to use the potable water in our trailers for the toilet if not necessary, we visited reception again. They informed us about a problem of broken pumps, vehicles and logistics of having to get water from a nearby village. During the day we could frequently hear the staff trying in vain to pump water into the head tank. Luckily we still had enough water in our own tanks. We went back later the afternoon to the lodge for drinks at the pool deck before driving to the viewing platform at the waterhole for sundowners. Having not seen any animals, we headed back to the campsite to enjoy the last night at Mankwe.

DAY12 MONDAY 03 JULY 2006

MANKWE - SAVUTE

DISTANCE: 114km

Our optimistic plan was to enter Chobe at Mababe gate towards Savute via the Marsh road and out again at Ghoha gate into the Chobe Forest Reserve to spend the night at Kavimba Community Camp. Mababe gate was open, but all offices closed. We decided to enter anyway, knowing that the fees are normally paid upon exit. We were amazed at the difference of the condition of the veld since three years ago due to the couple of seasons of good rains. The grass was much longer, the vegetation thicker but the tracks of course worse. Driving on the roads was once again extremely slow. We came across a safari vehicle, of which the trailer’s axle snapped; the occupants unloading the trailer. Our offer of assistance was met with a deep USA accent: “No thank you, this

is not a problem, its is an opportunity for a solution”. It became our motto for the rest of our holiday. We arrived at Savute Campsite mid afternoon, once again with no-one in sight at the offices. We decided to try our luck to see whether we could camp there. As we had no booking, we went looking for someone to assist. Some of the other overlanders told us about the same situation at other BNP campsites and gates where people are camping for free and not paying any entrance fees in the national parks. Apparently all BNP personnel were redeployed at food and mouth disease control points. Eventually a person arrived on a tractor, and directed us to a campsite. He would forward our vehicle registration numbers to the exit gate at Ghoha, where we were to pay all due fees. Soon after we set up camp we were visited by some tame hornbills, grabbing biscuits and rusks out of our hands. Later on we drove the short distance to view some Bushmen paintings a few kilometers from camp and collected firewood. With the ablutions in dire need of some maintenance (especially on the ladies’ side), we enjoyed cold showers before we settled down for an evening of good food and conversation around the campfire. That night we were visited by a spotted hyena that roamed the rubbish bins.

DAY13: TUESDAY 04 JULY 2006

SAVUTE – KASANE

DISTANCE: 241km

Early the next morning, after the usual sunrise digitals and breakfast, we headed off towards Kasane. Not surprisingly we were greeted once again by empty offices at Ghoha Gate. We headed off through Chobe Forest reserve, with the tracks in no better condition that those of Chobe National Park. But hey, we are in Africa with proper overlanding gear, so any better roads would have made it too easy. We saw plenty of larger game like giraffes etc, but very little smaller game. At Ngoma Gate we were surprised to hear that the Food&Mouth rules had changed since we left RSA, and that no meat were allowed to travel in any direction in Botswana. To Wim and Susan’s dismay, their last packet of Kollonade Woolworths lamb tjops were confiscated. The official again requested our details in order to forward it to Sidudu Gate. Soon after Ngoma, we were stopped by a herd of 9 elephant crossing the road. Sidudu gate was also abandoned and we drove through calculating how

much money Botswana Parks board lost the last two days from just our group. In Kasane, we immediately headed for Chobe Safari Lodge where we could not book in advance due to a “first come, first served” policy. At reception, we were informed that they were fully booked, as they take bookings only from overlanding safari organizations. The guy at the booking office (where we booked a sunset cruise for the following afternoon) was quite helpful in contacting a new lodge at Lesedi, Lesedi Valley Inn, which confirmed that we could camp on their premises. Not wanting to travel that far, we first tried all our options at other camping spots in Kasane and Kazangula, but no luck at all. All having the same policy of not making any bookings for individuals, only for large overland safari groups. We eventually headed off towards Lesedi while Wanda tried her luck by contacting all listed lodges in the Veronica Roodt Shell booklet. At the Lesedi Valley Inn we saw that there were no space to even park our vehicles, not mentioning setting up camp, and were directed to Mike’s camp on the Huntersroad trail just outside Lesedi. This camp was deserted, and we were a bit hesitant for the safety of our equipment if we were to leave camp for the sunset cruise. Wanda, in the meantime could manage to get us accommodation in bungalows at Kubu Lodge for that night only. We therefore decided to retry or luck for camping for the next night in Kasane, and were eventually assisted by an extremely helpful owner at Thebe River Safaris. He re-arranged some of his later arrivals in order to accommodate us and another group in the same situation.

Having at last found accommodation for the next few nights, we set off to Kubu Lodge where we booked in the very luxury bungalows. For supper we set off to The Old House restaurant in Kasane for pizzas and beer. Arriving back at Kubu Lodge late night, there were still a few unfortunate families searching for accommodation for the night.

DAY14: WEDNESDAY 05 JULY 2006

KASANE

DISTANCE: 63km

After a luxurious night in the lodge we enjoyed breakfast on the deck and set off to Thebe River Safaris to set up camp for the night. Mid afternoon we headed back towards Chobe Safari Lodge for the sunset cruise. This part of Africa along the Chobe River must be as close to Garden of Eden any living human being will ever get. The abundance of elephant, hippo, buffalo etc on the water edge is something no one can describe without using all known adjectives. Digital images or video clips cannot really convey the true experience. The sunset with huge elephant in the foreground will always be one of the most amazing moments in my life. It was a quiet and fulfilled group that eventually returned to Thebe River Safaris.

DAY15: THURSDAY 06 JULY 2006

KASANE - LIVINGSTONE

DISTANCE: 92km

Early morning, we headed off towards the ferry at Kazangula. It was a breeze to exit the Botswana side and cross the river, but what a nightmare to get through the Zambian side. After about three hours, and approximately ZAR1000,00 per family poorer (spent on ferry fees, community levy, third party insurance and carbon tax), we eventually were on the road to Livingstone. Arriving at the Zambezi Waterfront en route to the Vic Falls, we were directed to the well maintained camping spots. Having set up camp, we headed into Livingstone to stock up the fridges and buy some Europian Standard flat pin plugs for the power points. What a shock we received when we noticed the exuberant prices of basic foodstuffs in the local Shoprite. We were even more shocked at the price of beer, but what the hell, we must eat and cannot afford de-hydration.

DAY16: FRIDAY 07 JULY 2006

VIC FALLS

DISTANCE: 31km

After being woken very early by the micro light aircraft taking off from a nearby airfield, we spent most of the day roaming around the Vic Falls, astounded by this magnificent wonder. Luckily we were prepared with some cheapie parkas to keep us fairly dry. In some areas, the spray is such; it felt as if we were caught up in a rain storm. Having spent a few hours taking in the beautiful sight, we headed to the craft market. Warding off some very persistent sellers, we eventually left with some bargains. Arriving back at the camp, we settled down for an early evening, enjoying Riaan’s delicious beef and bean potjie.

DAY17: SATURDAY 08 JULY 2006

LIVINGSTONE

DISTANCE: 29km

We planned another leisure day, and headed off towards Livingstone to visit some of the curio shops etc. Having spent a few hours witnessing the demise of what must once have been a thriving city, we headed back towards the Zambesi Waterfront for an all inclusive (eat and drink as much as you want) dinner cruise on the Zambesi. Although a beautiful experience in its own way, it is not as magnificent as the sunset cruise we enjoyed a few days earlier on the Chobe. The wildlife is almost non existent, having seen only one hippo and waterbuck during the whole cruise. However the time spent relaxing with friends and the view of the sunset on the Zambesi made up for what might otherwise have been a disappointing cruise.

DAY18: SUNDAY 09 JULY 2006

VICTORIA BRIDGE

DISTANCE: 27km

Early morning, we headed off towards the Victoria Bridge, to witness some of the adrenalin sports. After we collected “day passes” at the Zambian border post, we walked the few hundred meters along the road towards the Vic Falls Bridge. At the bridge, Wim proposed to sponsor Riaan and me to bungi off the bridge. I grasped at Jacques’ resistance to me jumping off a bridge, and Riaan was the only brave one left amongst us. With no hesitance at all, he went through the preparations and flew off the landing before the countdown finished. Afterwards he said that the worst part of the experience is hanging upside down waiting for the assistant to pull you up, whilst imagining your feet slipping through the bungi harness… He was rewarded with an ice cold Mozi Lager for his bravery.

The litter on the road between the bridge and Zambian customs offices showed the sorrow of the demise of a once beautiful country.

DAY19: MONDAY 10 JULY 2006

ZAMBESI WATERFRONT – KAZUMA PAN

DISTANCE: 178km

After breaking up camp, we headed back towards the Kazangula ferry. This time around things went much smoother on the Zambian side, with only ferry fees and local council levy to be paid. On the Botswana side, having bought a double entry permit at the start of our holiday, everything went also smoothly, except when the little wood and cowhide drums of the children were only allowed through after we re-

moved the cowhide. We first headed into Kasane to stock up on supplies, before we set off for Hunters Road. As it was getting a bit late, and as we wanted to overnight at Kazuma Pan, we decided to enter Hunters Road at Lesedi Village. I had only read about Hunters Road and Kazuma Pan before, and the experience turned out to be unforgettable. We arrived late afternoon at Kazuma Pan, and after we set up camp, some of us set off for a sunset drive. Having seen some animal and birdlife and a beautiful sunset, we arrived back at the campsite, with the fire already blazing in the full moon. That night we were woken by the roar of lion very close by, and the thunder of buffalo storming through the veld. Although we could not see the attempted kill, this experience sent chills down our spines.

DAY20: TUESDAY 11 JULY 2006

KAZUMA PAN - NATA

DISTANCE: 235km

Early morning we had a quick drive around to find a good spot to capture the sunrise, and saw the restless herd of buffalo about 200m from our campsite.

Unfortunately, our program did not allow us to stay any longer, and we had to break up camp to head towards Nata. We continued on Hunters Road until Pandamatenga, where we headed west towards the Kasane – Nata tar road. Turning south on the tar road, the kilometers were chewed up quite quickly, only having to slow down a couple of times to swerve and avoid a few fairly sized potholes. Made us realize we are getting closer to RSA. We arrived early afternoon at the well kept Nata Lodge and chose a fairly sized campsite close to the ablutions. After having to head back into town for firewood, we settled in for a quiet evening around the campfire.

DAY21: WEDNESDAY 12 JULY 2006

NATA BIRD SANCTUARY

DISTANCE: 84km

After early morning coffee and rusks, we visited Nata Bird Sanctuary. We visited Nata Bird Sanctuary in 2002 Easter weekend when it was a particularly dry year, and we were looking forward to see what difference a good rainy season made. At the campsite, we saw two Defenders, one displaying an Overland sticker. It turned out to be Mike Howlett from Durban. After we exchanged some words and experiences, he offered me a spare Overland sticker, which I immediately displayed on the rear window of my vehicle. At least I was now also recognizable as a member of the Overland Forum. The pans were filled this time around. Four years ago, we could drive from the bird hide onto the hard dry pan for many kilometers, this time that part of the pan was filled to the brim. Four years ago, there was hardly any vegetation, now the grass stood almost as high as the vehicles.

Returning to Nata Lodge, we settled at the bar/pool area for some drinks and late lunch snacks. That evening, we settled around the campfire quirking and counting satellites, before retiring to bed.

DAY22: THURSDAY 13 JULY 2006

NATA – KUKONJE ISLAND

DISTANCE: 178km

We got up fairly early, and after we broke up camp we left for Kukonje Island. After a brief stop on the edge of Sowa Pan just beyond Sowa, we headed towards the general direction of Kukonje Island. Despite plotting the route the night before, I managed to get lost, with a dense “forest” of Mopani bush in our way. We spotted a few small groups of Springbok, and did manage later to get onto the right track, after consulting with one of the locals. From thereon it was easy going (except for a few dry river crossings) towards Kukonje.

Kukonje Island is an even more impressive haven on Sowa Pan than Kubu Island on the opposite shore. We set up camp under an impressive baobab on the western side. The campsite is also equipped with an ablution facility consisting of shower and toilet. After a late afternoon drive around the island, we settled around the campfire for our last night in Botswana.

DAY23: FRIDAY 14 JULY 2006

KUKONJE ISLAND – MARTINS DRIFT

DISTANCE: 471km

The knowledge of breaking up camp for the last time was quite a depressing thought, and we postponed the final departure for as late as possible. We posed for a last group photo under a baobab before the route took us south from Kukonje Island towards the Orapa – Francistown tar road. From thereon it was quite a long boring stretch before a brief stop in Francistown for fuel.

It was late afternoon when we arrived at KwaNokeng Lodge on the banks of the Limpopo River.

It was here that we had the only sighting of lion for the holiday…

With the dining area being restored, we enjoyed a quiet dinner under the starlit skies before retiring to the safari tents.

DAY24: SATURDAY 15 JULY 2006

MARTINS DRIFT - VOLKSRUST

DISTANCE: 649km

As we had a long haul ahead of us, we decided to get on the road as early as possible. The mood around the breakfast table was quite somber, knowing that the holiday is grinding to a halt. After breakfast on the lawn, we set off and were fairly quickly through the border back into South Africa.

Half way to Mokopane we bid farewell to Wim & Susan (accompanied by Surinda & Christiaan) who turned north towards Polokwane to continue their holiday. It was a late winter afternoon when we eventually arrived back in Volksrust.

TRIP SUMMARY:

Total days away from home: 24

Total Distance covered: 4465km’s

HIGHS

§ The whole trip was probably one of the most fulfilling experiences. However the remoteness and openness of Kazuma Pan and Kukonje Island, must rate very high on the list.

§ The sunset cruise on the Chobe, getting so close to the herds of wild animal is definitely an experience one will always cherish.

§ Camping under a huge baobab on the remote Kukonje Island was a dream came true.

§ The privilege of sharing such experiences with close friends will always be treasured.

§ Corsie was much chuffed that she surpassed the 400 number of birds identified.

§ Wanda, formerly a sworn “stadsjapie” only used to seaside holidays, was definitely reformed into a bush girl.

NOT SO HIGHS

§ A bit of car trouble, furthermore nothing.

§ The few days spent in Zambia were not worth all the cost.

WILL WE DO IT AGAIN

Definitely. The trip was probably the most relaxing and enjoyable holiday spent in a long time. One cannot get closer to serenity than spending a few weeks in nature, far-far away from the everyday rat race.

WHAT WILL WE DO DIFFERENTLY NEXT TIME

§ Book less time in established campsites in order to be able to spend more time bushcamping in places like Kukonje and Kazuma.

§ Wanda to remember to take enough superglue to repair her city nails.