Planning on the trip started early in 2003. Arrie was the main architect and planner. Since none of us ever visited either Botswana or Zambia it took a lot of research and discussions with other people that have been there before. Towards the end of 2003 it was decided that myself and family, Arrie and family, the Vlokke and Fanie and Ebé will go on the trip. Oh yes and ouma Voy (Arrie’s mom). Early in 2004 it was decided that Mitzie (Ouma’s younger sister) will also make the trip in Arrie’s Toy.
The final group consisted of the following people and vehicles,
Arrie Stopforth, ouma and the girls, Steph, Phia and Vaudri : Mazda B2600
Mitzi and son Div: Toy 2.2L
Fanie and Ebie (also known as die ouetehuis): Isuzu 2.8 D
Myself, Hilda, Deoni and Danny (the youngest member at 7 years): Sani 3L
Vlokke, Johan, Ansie snr, Anna Mart, Boetie and Ansie: Teranno 2.7D.
A total of 18 people and 5 vehicles. The size of the group sometimes proved a logistical challenge, especially on crossing the Zambezi at Kazangulu, but more about that later.
After careful consideration it was decided to use Jamba Safaris to make the necessary bookings and pre- payments to ensure that all campsites are available, due to their extensive knowledge of Botswana. After all was said and done the ittiniary looked as follows,
Strand: Saturday 03 July 2004.
We all eventually left after 05h00. We picked up the Vlokke at Riebeeck, and were underway.
Upington: Saturday 03 July 2004.
Arrived about 17h00. Distance approximately 850 km. Stayed in the bungalows at the Eiland resort.
Tsabong: Sunday 04 July 2004.
Traveled via Kuruman. A visit to the Oog is definitely worth it.
Arrived at Mc Carthy’s rest border post approx 15h00 (600 km travelled from Upington). Had to pay Bp 50 road tax to enter. Took about an hour to pass through both immigration offices. Arrived at Berry Bush camp 17h00 (20 km from border to Tshabong). Campsite consists of sand, sand and some more, however it must be said that it is nicely arranged. Hot showers, flushing toilets and limited fresh water are available. It is however advisable to take enough fresh water along. (It may save you an ear lashing from your wife).
Bungalows are also available, maybe more advisable than tent as the Terrano’s temp gage explained the cold feeling experienced by myself all night long, -3 at daybreak.
Kang: Monday 05 July 2004.
Travelled through the Kalahari. We left at 08h00 (very late judging from things to come) and arrived at Kang at 17h00. We travelled 350 km of which 115 on tar. The road between Tsabong and Tshasane consisted of all the sand you can think of. We hardly ever travelled faster than 40 kph. We saw nothing but a lone Vaalie in a Disco (foolhardy maybe?), a Botswana government official flying in a Landcruiser and two locals at the entrance gate to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier. Before I forget two gemsbuck and two impalas. Unless you need to test your own and vehicle’s endurance, I recommend the tar road to Kang.
Although bookings and payments were made we had to camp on the pavement next to the filling station. At least the ablution facilities were good and the water hot.
Mankwe Bush lodge: Tuesday 06 –Thursday 08 July.
Left Kang at 06h00 and travel to Maun on tar. Distance 550km. Arrived 13h00 and only left at 15h30 due to right side window that needed replacement, courtesy of Botswanan ambulance. Travelled another 120 km, about 20 on tar and the rest on some very poor roads (due to the abundant rainfalls earlier in the year). We arrived at our campsite after dark, approx 19h00. Had to chase a Hyena out of the campsite before we could pitch. Running toilets and water (not suitable for consumption) and bucket shower. It proved to be quite challenging to provide hot showers for 18 people. Also make sure your seaman skills are sufficient when it comes to tying the rope used to hoist the 40 odd kg of water. It is quite damaging to the morale, never mind your head if the shower falls on you, twice (ouch).
Wednesday 07. Daylight revealed the most amazing landscape of grass and trees. To venture off the roads on foot will be suicidal. Breakfast about 8h00 and travelled approx 24 km to the river Kwai and into Moremi Reserve. The road is very poor and takes about an hour to travel. Arrie storms the river with the Toy and by hook or crook, with the wiper required to clear the river from the windshield, passes through. The rest of us decided prudence is better and find a somewhat shallower crossing about 2 km upstream. Into Moremi and we found the most amazing wildlife. Elephant, hippo, croc, zebra, giraffe, and various species of buck and birds. Also saw a lot of another specie, South African tourists.
Understanding your map and GPS is also very important since we errouneously crossed another river, with the result that Fanie got stuck on the way back. Fortunately his memory saved him when he remembered about the Isuzu’s diff-lock.
Thursday 08. Arrie, Stephanie, Johan and Ansie (snr) went to Maun to fill up the Teranno and the jerry for the trip of the next day. Fanie and I both carried fifty litres in spare tanks on top. The Toy’s extra 100 l and the Mazda’s extra 50 l tanks proved to be sufficient. The rest of the group just lounged around, and believe me by now we needed it. Fanie also needed time to un-flood the Isuzu’s cab.
Friday 09 - Saturday 10 July: Kasane on the Chobe river.
Hyena woke us by overturning the refuge bin at 4h30. Left at 07h00. Required a GPS to find Kudumane village where we turned left to find the Mababe entrance gate to the Chobe Reserve. Travelled 50 km before reaching the entrance gate at 9h30. The road, if you can call it that, consists of sand, sand and sand. To travel through the Chobe is a costly affair since the per day rate is BP 120 per person older than 16 years, BP 60 per person between 8 and 16 years and BP 50 per vehicle. This excludes any camping fees should you decide to camp at one of the camping sites.
Reached Savuti camp at 12h00 where we had lunch (distance from the gate to Savuti 55 km). Did not see much game apart from elephants and some giraffe. We were in a hurry to get to the exit gate on the Namibia/Zim highway 80 km west of Kasane, which closes 18h00. From Savuti to Kasane we travelled a total distance of 250 km, with me getting stuck north of the Chobe forest reserve gate due to tyres being over inflated for the sandy road. Reached Chobe Safari Lodge at Kasane at 17h00. The camp site is on the banks of the Chobe river with a fence that is electrified at night to keep the hippos out. You hear them barking all night long as they feed right next to the campsite. Hot showers and flushing toilets.
Had a leisureable breakfast the next day before venturing into town to replenish. The town centre is rather pleasant with most of the shops present that you will find in SA. Decided to go on a sunset cruise on the Chobe River. Although I personally felt that the price is a rip off by firstly paying the charter and secondly paying a parks fee, it very soon became apparent that it is definitely worth it, since the pilot steers the boat nearly to touching distance of the game, which is abundant. The sunset is also glorious. The total cost for eighteen people, with Danny only paying for the charter, amounted to BP 2 600.
Sunday 11- Monday 12 July: Livingston Zambia.
Left Kasane at 9h00. Paperwork finished at the Kazangulu border post at 10h30. Next followed the most frustrating part of the trip. Not advisable if bound by time or impatient nature or large travelling group. Fanie was the last one over the ferry and touched down on Zambian soil at 15h00. Zambian immigration officials charge you a road tax according to who ever knows. Had to pay BP 50 on the day. They further had an inclination to disappear without any trace or explanation. Fanie waited 45 minutes to have his form stamped. Ferry cost at R 120 per vehicle. Finally got underway to travel the 80 km to Livingston. We expected a terrible road, since reports by friends having travelled the road 9 months previously had it that more travelling is done next to the tarred surface than on it. We were pleasantly surprised to find a brand new road to travel on.
Reached Livingstone at approximately 17h00 hours and were booked in at the Maramba river lodge by 18h00. The campsite is very pleasant with electricity available at US 3 per night. The cost per person amounted to US 5. We also decided to dine at the resident restaurant. The food was quite reasonable, quality as well as price wise. Average cost of meal was about R35-R45. The town of Livingstone is rather dilapidated and a 4X4 is definitely required to visit Shoprite in the centre of town. Beware of the locals. They will try any scam to defraud you.
The Vic Falls are awesome and definitely a testimony to the awesome power of God Almighty.
Anna Mart also left us here to fly back to Cape Town for study commitments.
Tuesday 13 - Wednesday 14 July: Leroo La Tau ( spoor of the lion).
Got up at 04h00 to be first at the ferry, which is supposedly open from 06h00. Made it to the first crossing and all 5 vehicles were over the river by 07h00. Must say, immigration officials in Zambia seems more efficient early in the morning. Ferry cost, once again R 120 per vehicle. Customs in Botswana seems more efficient and we pass through rather quickly at Bp 50 road tax again. For foot and mouth disease control purpose all vehicles and shoes must go through a dip.
Travel 20 km to Kasane and stock up on provisions. Veterinary control check points are abundant on the road between Kasane and Nata. We were lucky and officials did not search our vehicles otherwise we would be without supper at our next stop. Travelled 600 km via Nata to Leroo La Tau. It is important to fill up at Nata since petrol is not found again until Rakops on the way to Serowe.
At approx 16h00 hours we turned left off the tar road 124 km before Maun and travelled 30 km on a very sandy road where low range is often engaged although most of the travelling is done in 2 wheel drive. Since we were entering dusk we were awarded with some amazing wildlife scenes, with an elephant nearly running over the bonnet of the Toy. Arrived at the lodge in the dark at 19h00. Hot showers and flushing toilets are available. Own fresh water is required. The lodge is situated above a waterhole in the bed of a dry river. Game viewing is excellent.
The most memorable remark was made by myself at this very sandy venue upon returning from the ablution block to pick up the family after they had a shower and I got stuck in the sand, toilet toe in low range.
Thursday 15 July: Khama Rhino Sanctuary , 20 km outside Serowe.
Last night in Bots. Left LLT at 07h00. Need to travel 433 km for the day. Our route takes us through the Makgadigadi pans and the town of Rakops were we had to fill up due to fuel running low. Petrol was literally pumped into the vehicle by the attendant who cranked a lever for this purpose. Fuel here was much more expensive than anywhere else in Bots. Next town we passed through was Mapepi. It is important to note that although the tar road was mostly not to bad, just outside Rakops the road is very poor and disappear altogether at places.
Arrived at the Rhino sanctuary at approx 16h00. Although game viewing is excellent we unfortunately, due to time constraints, did not see any of the 30 odd rhinos which stay at the sanctuary. The campsite was nice with hot showers and flushing toilets. However the ablution block does not have light.
Friday 16 July: Home Sweet Home.
We left at about 06h00 and filled up Serowe, where the attendants accepted Rands. The roads are well maintained and a pleasure to drive on. We reached Gaberone at 11h30 where the Vlokke left us to go to Pretoria. The rest of us passed back into SA at Ramatlabana border post outside Mafakeng at approximately 13h00.
Remarks: The total cost of accommodation in Botswana amounted to R 2 600 for me and my family, taking into account that at most places Danny did not pay (under 8 years of age), while Deoni only paid half price (under 16 years of age). The total accommodation cost of the group amounted to about R16 000.
At the time of our visit the price of petrol at most filling stations was about BP 2.82, with the exception of Rakops where it was more than BP 3.
Total distance travelled back to the Strand 6 385 km.
The Sani used 889 L of petrol on the trip.
Total cost of the trip: approximately R13 000.
Exchange rate at the time R1.39 to 1 BP.