The Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail – Hennie Rautenbach – Sept 2005

 

During the beginning of August 2005 Chris van der Merwe contacted me.  He had a booking for 3 vehicles on the Nossob Eco Trail and one party cancelled.  Chris asked me if I'd be keen to take over this booking. I had met Chris briefly in Gonarezhou N/P, Zimbabwe in May during the “Old Toppies” tour (see the Zim Trip Reports page…). During the chatter on the forum sometime after the Zim tour Chris mentioned that he had to get away a bit and he and a few friends are keen to make a long weekend and go and drive the Huntersroad in Botswana. It would be just a quick trip with a small group of friends in two vehicles. No itinerary and no frills or fancy kit. I was very keen to join them and hinted that I’d love to come along. Chris was happy to have me along. Unfortunately family commitments interfered and I had to cancel. My youngest son had to attend a rugby tournament in Potchefstroom. Pity but that is the way these things sometime happen. Upon his return from the Huntersroad Chris posted a nice email about their trip and the pleasant social interaction they had with local farmers in Botswana. I was a bit envious. So ! When Chris contacted me with the offer to take over the cancellation for the Nossob Trail I was thrilled. Since the time I have read Geurt Bloem’s report I was very keen to do the trail. I was keen on a break too. It had been a hectic few months at work and it was time to get away from it all. This, however, would not be without initial problems. Bamba Zonki required serious attention…

 

 

Bamba Zonki (1989 110 V8) had been stationary since May and was in need of a few repairs. Repairs I have conviniently postponed. The carbs leaked. The solenoid was stuffed. The brakes were shot. The long-range tank leaked, etc. etc. I brought in a new camshaft, chain & gears and hydraulic lifters a month earlier from RPI Engineering in the UK.  Chris’ invitation was the perfect motivation needed to tackle the vehicle and get these fitted to the engine. The reason I got the cam was due to the lack of power, which had become a source of frustration with me. The 3.5l V8 engines are not really performers and a casual “dice” between me and Mike Nieuwoudt who drives a similar Landy confirmed that mine suffered from a lack of performance. Mike’s Landy below:

 

 

Bamba Zonki below:

 

 

Any improvement would help and I was anxious to get started. Upon return from the Surf and Turf weekend (organized by Eben Henning) I tackled the job. (You can view the Surf & Turf pics <here>) With the help of a few friends (Pierre Radley, Con de Bruin etc.) we stripped the engine to remove the old cam. It was a much bigger job than anticipated. Click the following link for a few pics of the job !

 

During the repairs there were a few tense moments. There was a period when I thought it would be impossible to get the engine assembled and the vehicle in good running order to be ready for the trip.  A week before we left I had huge disappointment with a workshop. This required that I had to get out the tools again and get in under the Landy to fit a new oil-pump gasket to cure a serious oil leak. But, things worked out with hours to spare and I managed to get her running in time.  By then my nerves were frayed and I had a good few sense of humor failures. Why do I always postpone repairs ? I never learn. Things always get attended to at number 99. Not fun.

 

Day 1

 

Ronel and I left the boys to stay with my folks and we left Pretoria the Friday at 14H00.  The route was Pta, Krugersdorp, Ventersdorp, Coligny, Biesiesvlei, Sannieshof, Ottosdal. We were to meet up with Chris, Connie and their three kids (1, 2 and 12) in Sannieshof. It was a reasonably short drive without incident. The Landy made no strange noises during her first 300 km and I was relieved that there weren’t any major issues left from the repairs. The brakes were still suspect and the longrange tank still had a leak. It was however a long way to go still. The real test laid ahead so I wasn’t completely comfortable yet. We met up with Chris as the sun was setting and drove the last 30 Km’s to their family farm near Ottosdal. Chris’ inlaws were still on their way. Theirs would be the 3^rd of the 5 vehicles in our party.

 

It was cool when we stopped at the farm. Chris introduced us to his dad, Johan, and his brother Karel. Wonderful hospitable people who made us feel at home immediately. They made a nice fire and with the beers flowing we relaxed and chatted till late. Karel and his family have recently returned from Egypt where he worked for a number of years. Amongst other he brought back a water pipe (hookah?) which he lit and which we smoked through the course of the evening. Chris’ in-laws, Chris and Sarie Maree, arrived sometime after 21H00 with their heavily loaded td5 Discovery. The vehicle was quite a spectacle with a huge tarpaulin strapped over the contents of the roofrack. We liked Chris (snr) immediately. A jovial gentleman with a fantastic sense of humor.  After a late braai we got to bed at approx. 01H00. Both Ronel and I were very tired. I was happy that it wasn’t necessary to open the rooftop tent. Chris had strict instructions that we had to be on the road no later than 09H00 the next morning.

 

Day 2

 

I woke at 05H30 to a fantastic chorus of birds and the fresh farm smell. I had a quick bath and went out to the Landy to boil some water on the gas for coffee. Coffee and rusks are the only way to get Ronel out of bed J . Karel was up early too to inspect the cattle. It wasn’t long before everyone was up and about. We fitted the VHF radio to Chris’ Cruiser so that we could have comms on the road. The radios make any trip an absolute pleasure. Lots of jokes and banter kill a long road quickly. Karel and Heleen treated us to a nice breakfast and by 09H00 we bid our farewells and hit the road. Our route was Delareyville, Vryburg, Kuruman, Olifansthoek, Upington and onto the guest farm where we would stay for the evening. A distance of almost 600 Km.

 

We reached the guest farm (Kalahari Plaaskombuis & B&B) at 17H00. We stopped briefly in Kuruman for lunch and in Upington to fill up.  I was slightly ahead of the group and without the kids with us made fewer stops. Chris and Connie had to make the odd nappy stop along the way.  The Landy ran fine and apart from the headwinds we had an uneventful day on the road. We received a very comfortable room in the B&B and arranged with our hosts to have a braai the evening. They joined us and we had a very sociable evening with them around the table. The weather was perfect, the beers flowed and Kalahari hospitality knows no bounds J. I can thoroughly recommend a stay-over at Paul and Riana Loots on the farm Uitsig, 60 Km north of Upington on the Askham road. (Cost R 140 p/p/pn excluding breakfast). Everyone was in bed at 22H30.

 

Click on the Postcard below to visit the website with the detail for the Kalahari Plaaskombuis & BB.

 

Day 3   

 

A cackling cockatoo just outside our door had us awake at 06H00.  We weren’t impressed with the noise J . Due to the shorter distance for that day we all had a late start. Riana served us a nice farm breakfast and then we were on our way. Paul took us to his bush camp across the road to show me the “bush chalets”. That is where I will stay next time.  Refer to the pics. We said goodbye to Paul and Riana and left for Molopo Lodge. 140 Km of tar. At Molopo Lodge we stopped so Chris (jnr) could refuel.  We decided to have a beer and byte to eat. Bad idea because we settled in very nicely and was somewhat reluctant to get back into the vehicles.

 

Click on the image below to visit the Molopo Lodge website !

 

 

It wasn’t too bad though because it was only 50 km’s or so to Twee Rivieren. I deflated my tires when I hit the dirt. The road from Molopo Lodge to Twee Rivieren is very badly corrugated. The day was hot and we had our first glimpse of the red dunes along the route. We reached Twee Rivieren at 15H00, paid our fees and set up camp. The campsite is a dusty affair and shade is sparse. During the afternoon and early evening the occupants of vehicle 4 and 5 came to make their respective introductions. Jan and Lettie Truter, a retired couple from Rustenburg drive a white Isuzu KB 3.0TD single cab 4x4. Jan and Christof Badenhorst, a father and teenage son team from Port Elizabeth drive a blue Isuzu KB  260LE double cab 4x4. Nice folk and it appeared as if we were about to have a lot of fun together. Ronel and I made a chicken stew, which we enjoyed under a beautiful full moon. We went to bed early.

 

Day 4   

 

Up early followed by the normal coffee & light breakfast ritual. Ronel and I try to avoid the large bacon and egg fry-up breakfasts. Coffee and rusks followed by serial and milk and a small yogurt tie us over until lunch quite nicely. We had our camp packed up reasonably quickly. Too quickly IMHO. Since army days I am not fond of a “hurry up and wait” routine. This morning would be marked by a few of these – all my own fault. We had to be at the information center at 09H00 to meet our guide. I still had to get additional ice, firewood and fill the Landy with petrol.  Everyone was ready at 09H00. Chris (snr) had to have his Discovery jump-started because his NL 40l freezer drained the main battery the previous evening. He didn’t seem too perturbed. He ran his freezer without dual-battery. I had my own worries. I was a bit apprehensive about what lay ahead. It was nice to have two competitive brands of vehicle in the tour. Cruiser and Land Rover. Both forums (CruiserClub and ZA-LRO) were represented. Chris had told me many tall stories about the massive dunes that lay ahead and his doubt in Bamba’s ability to conquer them J . I was nervous. We met Jannie Kriel, our guide. Nice chap. He collected our indemnity forms and handed each vehicle a handheld 2way radio. It was followed by a short briefing and we were on our way.

 

It was a slow drive for approx 50 km’s along the main Twee Rivieren / Nossob road to get to the Trail turnoff. We saw a few Wildebeest, Springbuck, Red Hartebees and Oryx along the way. We passed a fair number of large “sociable weaver” nests. At the turnoff we stopped and stretched our legs. The radios were still quiet. When we got going again Jan Badenhorst signalled for our guide to stop. His fuel gauge stopped working and he was concerned that he may have lost fuel. It appeared to be a glitch with the gauge only and we were on our way. The 2 spoor track winded into the dunes.

 

The driving was reasonably easy. Jannie spoke over the radio at times but it was too feint for us to hear. The radios required a bit of a charge first. Jannie stopped at a massive Witgat Tree for us to take a lunch break. Leaving from there we had our first obstacle and I got my first taste of what dune driving is about. I gathered speed and drove up the dune but came short just before the crest. Not enough momentum. I tried again with more revs and went over fine. Okay, so that is how you do it. With lots of RPM’s and sufficient momentum. All the other vehicles went over the first time.  Curses. Why did I have to be the one to get stuck first ? J I was waiting for Chris to comment :-)

 

We reached our first nights campsite at 16H00. Set amongst the dunes Witgat Campsite has the most beautiful location of the three.  It is slightly elevated and offers a view over a manmade waterhole. We set up camp and prepared our first fire & braai together. It was clear that Jan Truter had a wealth of experience and numerous stories. He is a retired policeman and was stationed in Kaudum in Namibia for many years. He also managed a lodge for a friend in the Kaokoveld and has travelled Namibia & Botswana extensively. He shared many stories around the campfire, which we enjoyed very much. Everyone threw in a few travel tales and questions got directed backwards and forwards to get to know each other. Having read Geurt’s report I was wary of the early starts he referred to.  I wasn’t particularly keen to get up at 05H00. Jannie said it is no problem and we’ll leave when everyone is ready. Most went to bed at 22H00. The first day on the trail was grand.

 

 

Day 5

 

At 05H20 or thereabouts two lions started to roar. It was very load and sounded as if it came right from within our camp.  Wow ! I was very excited and woke Ronel to hear the roars. It was a male, 2 females and a cub. They were within 80 meters of the campsite. I got out of the tent just in time to catch a lift with Jannie and some of the others. It was still dark and armed with spotlights we drove closer to the waterhole along the track. We could see them very nicely. Upon return and as it got light the lions settled at the waterhole. Ronel was awake now and Chris (snr) asked her to come and have a look at the lions too. Ronel left the rooftop tent reluctantly. We enjoyed the experience of being so close to the lions very much. We watched them for a long while before they disappeared into the dunes. We made breakfast, broke camp and headed on.

 

The dunes became increasingly challenging. At various points all of the vehicles had their turn in getting stuck. Some more often than others. I had a good laugh at Chris (jnr) when the Cruiser came to halt on one of the dunes.  At least it wasn’t just me. Chris also follows a philosophy of trying an obstacle with the minimum power required and a 2^nd attempt rather than churning up the sand with too much wheel spin.  Both Jan Truter and Chris Maree had difficulty to get over the dunes more than once. I attributed it to a modest driving style. It was clear to me when I got stuck that we sometime need to rev these beasts harder than what we are used to. It certainly wasn’t a walk in the park with some of the dunes…

 

 

 

Jannie stopped a few times to share information on plants and trees and some of the Fauna in the park. He showed us a mole snake and the nests of the sociable weavers etc. All and all it was very interesting and the radios started coming alive with excited chatter about plants/trees and birds/animals. We were now more familiar with the driving routine and I relaxed completely. Where Jannie was unable to answer a question one of the group chipped in. The only negative was perhaps the heat. At times the needle crept over 40 deg C.  Not fun without aircon but at least the wind made it more tolerable. After a lunch stop amongst a clump of Kameeldorings we ambled onto Rosyntjiebos campsite, which we reached at 15H00.  We pitched camp, warmed water for a shower and relaxed. The only mild annoyance was Jan Truter’s Isuzu which he idled in the campsite for an hour in an attempt to recharge his dual battery. His dual battery system was giving problems and his freezer wasn’t coping (not a familiar brand). Ronel and I decided to make another potjie, which we rounded off with KWV Roodeberg. Life could hardly get better. Ronel was a bit nervous when a jackal came too close to her while she was behind the vehicle, but Jannie was there quick as wink and the jackal made off.

 

Chris and I took a pic where we had a beer on the guys on the forum who had to stay behind… J

 

 

Day 6

 

We were packed and ready at 08H30 and carried on with the trail. Jannie stopped to show us a Cape Cobra which slithered into a bush where it entangled itself in the branches. The dunes were giving their fair share of fun. Someone had unlocked the left front hubs of the two Isuzu’s the morning and Jan Truter was having a battle. Chris <jnr> grinned and we debated at length over the VHF who the culprit may be. It was fun having a second radio over and above the Zartek’s. Chris and I had a lot of fun this way. I suggested to Jan that he inspect his free-wheel hubs and the blame fell on me. So much for my good deed J

 

There was lots of excitement when Connie spotted a lioness on a fresh Gemsbok kill right next to the road. We had all somehow missed it. When we stopped the lioness scattered. She was very skittish.  We viewed the carcass and stayed for a while but she didn’t come back. Amongst the entrails was a fetus… Grim, but that is nature for you.  We proceeded toward Eileen Pan where we stopped for lunch.

 

Jannie stopped at one particularly hectic dune to offer the guys an opportunity for a challenge. The dune offered a spectacular view of the surrounding area. (marked on T4A at S25.60596 E20.61503). I had two minds about the whole thing. I wasn’t entirely sure whether Bamba will make it up the dune. But ! I wasn’t about to pass on the challenge either. I had to give it a go too J . First was Jannie in the Parks Mazda Drifter 2.5TDi. He crested the dune without a problem, but watching the momentum he gathered I was even more apprehensive about my chances.  Jan Badenhorst tried it and came just short and came back down. Third up was me and I gave Bamba all she had. She moaned and screamed but managed it over the first time. A lot of cheers for Bamba ! J Fourth was Jan Truter in his Isuzu but he also came short. Chris was fifth and his engine started coughing with fuel starvation right at the base of the dune. He reversed back a fair stretch and then approached it at a more sedate pace. Really unfair to see how easy that Cruiser handle these obstacles J It appeared to be no effort at all. Chris Maree opted out and we proceeded toward our campsite.

 

One tricky dune almost caught me out. I am sure Jannie set us up for this one J I was a little slow in my approach and inched over at 300 rpm. It was hot and the sand was very loose.  Chris Maree had a fair battle and while we waited for him Jan Truter asked me to have a look at his freezer/battery setup. It wasn’t charging. It was a bit of a mess. His supplier used a small 8A trip switch in the system that tripped all the time. I bypassed the switch and noted that the wires used were way too thin. There was a considerable voltage drop but at least his battery was charging again. Chris (jnr) as substitute driver got the Disco td5 over the dune after 3 unsuccessful attempts by its own driver. We reached Swartbas camp at 15H30 and I waited till sunset to open the rooftop tent. It was very hot so we chilled in the shade under the trees. Braai was on the menu.

 

At approx 18H30 Jannie & Chris took a few of the guys back to the kill to see if the lioness had returned. She was there but kept her distance. The day was rounded off with another spectacular evening around the campfire.

 

Day 7

 

            Chris approached us the previous evening and asked if we were keen to do the rather dull and boring stretch left for the day, which I am told offer very little scenery and wildlife, or whether we are keen to have a late start with a big breakfast and then break out at the escape route and go an relax at Nossob camp. All were keen for this option, so after a late and “massive” breakfast we hit the road to Nossob. At Nossob we took a group pic and said our goodbyes to Jannie. We couldn‘t  have asked for a nicer guide.

 

 

We had a nice relaxed afternoon and went for a game drive at 17H00. A good call it was too because we found lions right in the road not too far from the camp.

 

 

That evening marked the split of the group and we had our last braai together. I decided to head to Molopo Lodge the next morning to have a shorter drive the day after that.

 

Day 8

 

            Ronel and I said goodbye to our friends and headed toward Twee Rivieren. Approx 20 km’s south of Nossob we struck gold again with a pair of lionesses next to the road. Our presence didn’t bother them the least bit…

 

 

 

            Chris had told us the he also planned to drive down to Twee Rivieren. His original plans were to extend his holiday by another week but business concerns back home required his attention. A few SMS’ later and he and Chris (snr) decided to join us at Molopo Lodge instead. Twee Rivieren really is a very dull campsite (labeled Germiston Station by Chris). Ronel and I were booked into a comfortable rondavel and Chris and family booked into safari tents (R 190 p/p/pn including breakfast for all their accommodation). That afternoon / evening we had a good “kuier” on the “stoep” (veranda). We decided to have a meal in their Restaurant and end the holiday together socially. It was a good evening with loads of fun. We discovered that there aren’t “carpaccio" in the Kalahari J The main meal was Springbok & Red Wine Pie which we washed down with Roodeberg and KWV Merlot Reserve. When we inquired about the possibility of Springbok Carpaccio the chef just shrugged his shoulders. He had never heard of it.  No problem with Calamari though J

 

Day 9

 

            Another morning where we tried to say our final good-bye’s J

 

            After a nice hearty English breakfast we said goodbye ‘again’ and hit the road. Ronel and I planned to drive to Vryburg and stay over there. During the uneventful drive Chris phoned to say he wasn’t far behind us and extended an invitation to spend the evening with them back at the farm if we weren’t too tired. I discussed with Ronel and she said she was still fine. So off to the farm we drove with another evening of van der Merwe hospitality. J

 

Day 10 

 

            Home via the route we came. We drove against headwinds and dust storms from hell all the way to Pretoria from Sannieshof. The whole western ‘Transvaal’ was being blown away. We were home at 12H00 and very happy to see the boys who had stayed behind. Next time they come along. They would have enjoyed the trip very much and it would have been very educational for them. It was a pity they couldn’t have come with us (school & exams).

 

End

 

            Thanks very much to Chris for the invitation and the wonderful hospitality on the farm and the great cameraderie on the trip. We'll certainly do more trips together...

 

Positives:

 

      The dual battery lasted and the freezer (National Luna) performed faultlessly throughout the trip. So did Chris’ Engel freezer and battery setup.

      We appear to have the packing and camping thing down to a tee…

      Northern Cape must have the most hospitable folk in South Africa.

      We couldn’t have wished for more pleasant and fun traveling companions.

      VHF 2-way radios rule when you drive in convoy !

      Our camp shower is still the best J

      An aircon in the vehicle would have been nice.

      Having the GPS along with the track on T4A was very handy.

      The Coleman Extreme Coolerbox kept ice (from a sizable ice block) frozen for 7 days without regular opening.

      There are more lions in the Kgaligadi than in the Kruger NP.

      AVOID the Kgaligadi between Oct and March. It gets very hot.

      Take ample drinking water. The stuff in the Kgaligadi is not fit for human consumption.

      Enjoying the moonlit Kalahari-scape from the comfort and privacy of the elevated rooftop tent !

      The beautiful stars at night !

      The Nossob Eco Trail is in my opinion a MUST DO ! See the brochure below ! It will be even better if you can put together a party with 4 of your bests friends in their vehicles. We were very fortunate with our traveling companions, but Jannie told a few horror stories too... Overlanding has become fashionable. You no longer find the guys in the bush who want to be there, but rather the ones who are trying to live up to the Jones'. It is a pity because madam quickly discovers that the facilities (or lack thereof) don't appeal to her sophisticated expectations and then proceed to make it intollerable for the rest. There is a lesson in it for us all. Choose your traveling companions CAREFULLY ! :-)

 

Negatives:

 

      Petrol is now very expensive (Sept 2005), particularly so with the Kalahari sandy conditions, which ate at the consumption.

      Vehicles idling endlessly in the campsite due to flat dual battery. I do realize that it is often not the owner’s fault, but it certainly distracts from the quiet, remote & isolated bush experience.

      The constant Landy criticism.  I realize that the banter was good humoured but at times the topic got worn a bit thin…

 

     

Brochure: [Cover] [Page 1 & 2] [Page 3 & 4] [Page 5 & 6]

 

Images of the trip: [click here - Photo Album - Hennie Rautenbach][click here - Photo Album - Chris van der Merwe]

 

Best regards,

 

Hennie Rautenbach

Hennie at overland.co.za