Alex van der Horst's Land Rover Defender Aircon Pump.


Aircon Compressor Story.
I have been asked to share the process of installing an air conditioner (A/C) unit into my Land rover Defender 90 Tdi for air pumping purposes.

Background:

My first experience with an A/C pump was in Matusadona National Park in Zimbabwe. We were in a convoy of my Land Rover Series 3 Station wagon and my Father in-law in his Ford F250. We have just completed the trip from Chizarira and had plenty of punctures on the F250. A group of farmers from the Western Cape passed us and offered assistance at various times along the route. The tyre man from the convoy had an A/C pump. Wow is all we thought while our tyres were pumped. We were using a cheap pump designed for bicycle tyres and beach balls. When I returned I researched the Web and found tons of info from America with installations into Jeeps. I made up my mind then that this is the way to go. I had a problem of where to install the pump and then I found a friendly ex Landy owner in Cape Town who had done the installation into a Tdi engine bay before. Unfortunately it was after I wasted R200-00 on the wrong pump. There is not a lot of space in a Defender engine bay with a Tdi engine. I hope this helps any new A/C pump installers as the R&D work took the longest time, and the installation is fairly simple once you know where to install the pump itself.

Description:

The automotive rotary A/C pump is not really designed to work pumping air. It works well enough for pumping tyres as long as oil is introduced into the air stream being pumped for lubrication of the pump internals. The only problem then is that you need to remove this before it goes into your tyre. Therefore you need and oiler on the intake site and an oil/water separator on the exit side. Be careful an A/C pump can pump up to 4000Kpa so you would also need a safety pressure release valve.

Parts List:

1. Used aircon pump with micro groove pulley.
2. Tool oiler
3. Oil/Water separator
4. Air reservoir (Optional)
5. Non return valve (Optional)
6. Quick disconnect coupler
7. Air hose and clamps
8. Air cleaner
9. Safety pressure release valve
10. Mounting bracket (Self designed don't know if I can make another)
11. Micro groove fan belt 4PK705 (Nissan Sentra 200) Cut in half.
12. Switch
13. Pressure switch (Optional)
14. Pressure gauge (Optional)

The process will be described in a picture-by-picture style.

1. Below is a picture of the position of the A/C pump. Notice it mounts next to the existing pump slightly ahead of it. The water reservoir and diesel filter unit had to be moved back to accommodate the pump.



2. Below is a picture that shows what pipes have to be lengthened to be able to move the water reservoir backwards. The other is the overflow from the radiator. (Not shown) The main pipe from the radiator hose also needs to be lengthened. Notice the brass filler plug I replaced the plastic plugs with. Here you can also see where drive comes from to drive the A/C pump. The existing pump has a space left for half a 4-rib belt. This is sufficient to power the pump besides you already have a spare.



3. Below is a picture of the mounting bracket that I made. The standard bolts holding the existing A/C down need to be replaced with bolts that are 1 cm longer to accommodate the bracket. The top tension bracket is not finished but was hastily made to test the project but has never been completed. Also not clear is the belt tensioner pulley that has been moved forward by placing a few washers behind it. This to make the half a belt driving the pump stable.



4. Below you can see that the standard bonnet scissor lift has no place left anymore as the pump has taken its spot. The picture also shows how snugly everything fits. Notice the magnetic mount antenna on an aluminium Landy. The plate below it is a 5mm piece of steel that I must still have galvanised. Also notice the oiler close to the pump.



5. The picture below shows how close the pump is to the diesel filter. I have removed some aluminium from the pump as well as the diesel filter. This can be overcome if you can find a shorter belt (650mm) as the pump can be swivelled much closer to the existing pump.



6. The picture below shows the safety valve and the pressure gauge. I went for a valve that can be set to activate at a set pressure. I have set it to 8Kpa, as this is the limit of my oil/water separator. I had the safety valve under the seat but it has caused a few heart stoppages when it activated so I decided to move it to the engine bay.



7. The picture below shows the air cleaner element that I fabricated from a GUD compressor filter. This is also temporarily as I want to get air from the car's air cleaner. You can also see the non-return vale hiding behind the water reservoir filler cap in the picture.



8. Below is a picture of the non-return valve. This is to stop all the air in the reservoir bleeding out back through the pump. I used a water non-return valve. I still need to get a proper air non-return valve, as the valve does not work too well.



9. Below is a detail shot of the oiler. I was conned into buying a Festo unit at R250-00 but you can see a R30-00 unit in picture nr 14 next to the bottle of oil.



10. Below is a picture of the oil/water separator. This is also a Festo unit and I am sure that there is cheaper brands available. The unit is mounted under the passenger seat. The Festo unit is self-draining and this is a nifty feature.



11. Below is the business end of the air installation and this is a quick disconnect standard air hose version. I just made a hole in the seat box and pushed the pipe through it. Maybe a neater way is possible but this works just fine for me.



12. Below is a picture of the air reservoir I used. It is a 2.5 kg fire extinguisher. It is installed between the seat box and the body mount. It is far too small to hold enough air, so I will be installing an extra reservoir as soon as I figure out where.



13. This is a possible place. In front of the rear left tyre.



14. Below is the oil I use. Regular air tool oil at R8-00 per litre will last me about 10 years. Notice the cheaper oiler next to the bottle of oil.



15. I installed a bonnet tyre mounting kit and removed the standard bonnet stay bracket so I had to make one again. The standard bracket is there for countries where the scissor stay is not allowed.



16. Below is the top part of my bonnet stay.



17. Below is the bottom part of the stay. The stay was necessary as the A/C pump made the further use of the scissor stay impossible. Notice the hole in the grille support. The hole is standard as well.



18. The last missing picture should be of the switch in the cab to turn the pump on and off. A future mod is to make a hand throttle to increase the revs when I am alone. I need a willing right foot at the moment to make the pump work effectively.

I hope this helps any future installers. I enjoy do it yourself projects and the satisfaction of improving and modifying my Landy is a real pleasure for me. Any questions can be done to myself at Cell 082 520 7404, Email alexvdh@absamail.co.za !